Done. Well done for spotting that, I hadn't even noticed they weren't 501 bulbs myself!stevemarl wrote: (Andrew, perhaps you could edit?)
Andrew.
Done. Well done for spotting that, I hadn't even noticed they weren't 501 bulbs myself!stevemarl wrote: (Andrew, perhaps you could edit?)
Mention of originality is making me regret how extensively I fitted LEDs in mine.... Initially, 10 years ago, I just replaced the brake lights on safety grounds. ( For anyone unfamiliar with the claims, an LED is supposed to light more or less instantly, IIRC 100mS (?) quicker than filament. 0.1 sec may not seem much, but at 60mph it`s worth an extra 10 ft of road in front of you, which I thought a good idea so fitted them to both cars.) Then the green instrument bulbs were a big improvement.....& while dash was out might as well do beam warning, charge etc, etc. And that courtesy light`s a bit dim....peers.dupp wrote:it conforms to my philosophy of maintaining originallity wherever possible.stevemarl wrote:There`s a green plastic moulding around the inner edge of the clock, inside, so it can only really be green.
Andrew.
Steve,stevemarl wrote:Mention of originality is making me regret how extensively I fitted LEDs in mine.
Steve,stevemarl wrote:Apart from the display - which overcomes a design fault IMO
You know you want to!stevemarl wrote:Do I go back? Decisions, decisions... I think I may.
Simon,simon wrote: the only thing that i would like to know is did you just do the rev counter and the speedo bulbs or did you do the lot meaning the fuel /temp side and the oil pressure/battery side or is it best to do all 4 bulbs for a better lighting ?
Hi Dave,Hollyoak wrote:You mention repairs to your circuit board, is this a DIY job or did you get someone to do it,
Mines got a break in it and only one of the dash dial lights is working,
Dave,Hollyoak wrote:Well It gives me confidence that a repair is a good option, I'd rather repair if possible at least I know there's just one problem, you don't know what you're going to inherit with an old one
Steve,stevemarl wrote:Just out of interest, how do they get damaged/fail? I`d have thought they ,just sat there minding their own business, you`d expect them to last fairly well?
Yep, that`s exactly it. If you heat the wire as well (only for a second or 2), you`ll find the solder will flow onto the joint much better.peers.dupp wrote: I find that the solder just forms a ball and rolls off the wire I am soldering
Andrew, had a look at the board and its a bit of a mess, too much for me to tackle, don't know what's happened to it in the past, looks like someone's not taken a lot of care getting it out, however the guy I was talking to says he can repair it ( sent him some photos ) but at a cost of £75-£90 so I'll get a second hand one, on the positive side they can be repaired, there may come a time when you don't have a choice, though as they say you can always get away with paying,peers.dupp wrote:Dave,Hollyoak wrote:Well It gives me confidence that a repair is a good option, I'd rather repair if possible at least I know there's just one problem, you don't know what you're going to inherit with an old one
A very sensible approach, better the devil you know!. As I said, a DIY repair should be possible, although an electronics repair outfit should be able to repair it easily, should you wish to play safe. Let me know how you get on.
Andrew.
Dave,Hollyoak wrote:Andrew, had a look at the board and its a bit of a mess, too much for me to tackle, don't know what's happened to it in the past, looks like someone's not taken a lot of care getting it out, however the guy I was talking to says he can repair it ( sent him some photos ) but at a cost of £75-£90 so I'll get a second hand one, on the positive side they can be repaired, there may come a time when you don't have a choice, though as they say you can always get away with paying,