Ignition won't switch off until Indicator fuse is removed

[Ethan18/1987/2.0L]

I have a 1987 (D reg) capri with a 2.0l pinto that im restoring with my dad and we have just managed to get it running after changing the jets from 45/45 to 60/50 and now it runs beautifully, but now we have an issue in getting the engine to stop when we switch the ignition off by the key the engine keeps running and there is still power to the coil but we accidentally discovered that when the fuse that controlles the Indicators is removed (causing the Indicators to stop) the engine will stop by the key and when the fuse is reinserted there is an audible change in the tone of the engine, the rpm lowered and the power to the coil went from 12v to 13.5v and the engine will no longer stop by key and were at a bit of a loss.

[nemo]

The coil voltage should only be 6-8v as it should be fed via a ballast resistor: this is bypassed at start up to give a boost but under normal running it should not be 12 (or 13.5)v. There`s obviously some kind of short which is feeding batt voltage straight to coil from the indicator supply, which is odd as that supply is still ignition switched so you`d think the engine would still stop `on the key`? All you can do is try to remove any obviously added/botched wiring and try to find the original coil supply from the ballast resistor (wire) this will be switched with the ignition. Sorry that`s not much help...

[D366Y]

Pictures of the engine bay and any exposed/dodgy wiring may help us diagnose it? Otherwise as Nemo says, it's hard for us to give much advice beyond checking everything I'm afraid

Only other thing I can guess is that maybe the fusebox is faulty and arcing between the fuses? Long shot though haha

Cheers
Danny

[Major_Tom]

All the earths go through a rear light cluster, think its the nearside. If its cracked or damaged it can cause a load of issues. On mine, if you braked, one front sidelight would come on, it ate alternators and, once or twice, the engine would not immediately cut off when turning off the ignition and removing the key.

I replaced the light clusters (be careful tightening them you can crack them!) and all the issues resolved themselves.

[Ethan18/1987/2.0L]

Thanks for the advice we've managed to fix it. we ended up taking out the dials and putting them back in and it seems to have sorted it so we think we may have trapped a wire or accidentally grounded something

Don't seem to be able to get the tachometer working we purchased a "new" set of dials that were sold as in full working order though we have both green wires plugged in and can't find any obvious breaks in the wire it dosent seem to work but we are using a accu spark 3ohm coil so are not sure if that could affect anything but just thought we'd ask

[nemo]

The 3ohm coil will be 12v (rather than the original 6v/1.5ohm ballasted Bosch) so the ignition has been rewired for this. All makes it more difficult to diagnose problems as it`s just such an unknown quantity?
(Incidentally does anybody know how to access extra characters such as Omega etc)

[Andrew 2.8i]

(Incidentally does anybody know how to access extra characters such as Omega etc)

Ω
Don't know.....

I'm not sure if there is an actual setting on the keyboard to access all the special characters, but they can usually be typed by pressing Alt simultaneously with a number sequence. I just Google each one when I wish to type something like ½ etc.

Andrew.

[nemo]

I think it needs the numeric keypad? Sadly some of my numbers died some time ago so thats a non-starter. I did get pi thyough, TT

[Andrew 2.8i]

I did get pi thyough, TT

Very good!
I've just checked and you do need the numerical keypad for the method I described.
An easy workaround is to search online for the symbol you wish to use, then simply copy and paste into your document or forum post.
Works for everything.

Anδrew.