The Ford Capri Laser Page

Hi Guys, I'll be removing my engine next Monday to get he sump off.

Just wanted to check i've thought of all things.

Disconnect Rad, drain and remove.
Get the bonnect as high as poss
undo bellhousing bolts and support with trolley jack
Disconnect Exhaust manifolder downpipe
battery
disconnect coolant pipes going through bulk head
Put my lift hook eyes back on!
Undo engine mountings
Lift the bugger

As the drive has peddles I was just going to roll the car back once lifted. I believe the engine will just come away from the gearbox with a bit of wriggling?

Never tackled this before so wanted to make sure this is about it? My mate from turbosport.co.uk assures me it's easy peasy.

Cheers guys, Dave

I`m sure someone will correct me, but I`m pretty sure you`ll need to take the bonnet off `cos of the angle it comes out at. I`ve never done a Capri, but every other car it`s been a bonnet off job. (mark the hinges first so you can put them back in same alignment.)

Don`t forget the earth strap to the block, throttle cable, temp sender, oil pressure pipe etc etc

Also you need to support the gearbox as you pull it off, you can cause a lot of damage leaving it hanging on the input shaft.

To get the sump off (if that is the objective), can't you take the engine weight with the lift, remove the cross member and get access to the sump that way?

Probably 6 of one, half a dozen of another. If you take the crossmember down you`ve got to take all the suspension off, haven`t you? Must admit I`d look for another way before removing the engine....

Hi Guys,

Already gone the "easier " route of suspending the engine on a scaffold pole, dropping x member even moving steering rack. Could not get the sump out and it took ages!

Earth strap, good point! Fogot about temp sender and oil pressure pipe.

Hope I don't have the take the bonnet off as I hear lining up can be a pig of a job. Hopefully a nice long wooden plank will support it high enough.

Dave

The bonnet really is not that bad a job, only 4 bolts, and if you mark around the mounting you can put it back exactly as it was. I`ve even done one on my own (loads of blankets on the wing tops!!!)

I`d be interested to know If it IS possible with it in place?

stevemarl wrote:I`d be interested to know If it IS possible with it in place?

Yes Steve it is

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=35701&start=20

Bit tight, needs a longer prop but can be done

Long time since I pulled a Pinto out..... Seem to remember the starter will need to be removed, did anyone mention the fuel pipe from the pump. And don't forget if you roll the car back the chances are the gearbox will fall off the jack, probably best to pull the engine away from the car on the hoist.

Good luck
Neil

Good point about rolling the car back.

It's a peddle drive so i'll need to try and clear them a bit which will mean I can wheel the hoist backwards.

How heavy is a pinto?

I assume ratchet strap type material will do the trick as opposed to using chains?

DaveSimpy wrote:
It's a peddle drive so i'll need to try and clear them a bit...?

Hi Dave, if you mean a pebble drive (as in gravel), then you might be better off putting a sheet of wood down for the crane to travel on.

Yep! Pebble I mean.

Yeah, i'll have a look at what i've got lying around.

Amazing that it takes this much effort to remove the sump!

There has to be a better way?

From all the googling i've done Paul, I don't believe so.

pbar wrote:There has to be a better way?

If the car is jacked up at the front can't you lift the engine slightly on the hoist then un bolt & remove the cross member form underneath then you can take the sump off. Don't know if its easier than engine out but possible surely?

I think the problem is because the deepest part of the sump is behind the xmember, which makes it difficult/impossible to remove? Wouldn`t it come out easilt if it were the other way round?
Why do you need the sump off?

Personally I would prefer to pull the engine out to remove a sump. It's not much fun working under a car supported on axle stands with an engine hoist suspending the engine.

If you're taking the engine out, it would be worth considering changing the clutch and rear crankshaft seal, if you don't know how new they are!

All the best
Neil

Thanks for all the points gents.

I've stripped everything out the bay so I think it's engine out.
Not sure I'll have time to do the clutch as I'm hitting the hoist for a day.

Sump out to weld a oil return from turbo.knew I'd have to do it at done point.
Plus point, it's the last thing before the mot

Engine out is easy - remember it can be done in a field in 2 hours!

I always remove the bonnet. All the wiggling and rocking you'll do when removing and replacing the engine is likely to have the bonnet fall off it's (longer) prop just when you don't want it to. Only 4 bolts - what's the problem?

340truck wrote:Engine out is easy - remember it can be done in a field in 2 hours!

That's by you though, you've probably done over a million of 'em!

No problem, if that's the best method than that's what I'll do.

Will just need to Mark it to make sure it goes back properly.

I'll take the starter of tomoz and drain the oil and should be good to go.