Engine noise
- Dallas
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Engine noise
I have a high pitched noise that seems to be coming from front cambelt area, it sounds like a electrical dynamo sound, noise increases with revs.
The noise only starts when car has reached temperature.
I've taken of the fan belt and noise is still there, so that illuminates the fanbelt, fan, water pump and alternator.
The cambelt has been changed twice, also replaced the belt tensioner and cam seal.
I'm totally stumped.
The noise only starts when car has reached temperature.
I've taken of the fan belt and noise is still there, so that illuminates the fanbelt, fan, water pump and alternator.
The cambelt has been changed twice, also replaced the belt tensioner and cam seal.
I'm totally stumped.
Re: Engine noise
Did you replace the tensioner to eliminate the noise, or did it start after that?
Have you tried squirting a little bit of WD40 into the tensioner when it's running to see if it goes away?
Have you tried squirting a little bit of WD40 into the tensioner when it's running to see if it goes away?
- Peter-S
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Re: Engine noise
Doesn't seem to leave many options - front camshaft bearing?
- Dallas
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Re: Engine noise
Hi guys.
The noise started soon after having the first cambelt changed, the tensioner was not changed at this point.
It's now had another cambelt change and new tensioner and oil cam seal.
The noise it not always constant, doesn't happen when you first start the car. The noise creeps up after 5 minutes and then fades to nothing. The noise then comes back while driving, even at idle.
Sometimes I'm sure the noise is coming from the carburettor area, it's really odd.
Can oil pumps make an electrical whine/rubbing noise?
The noise started soon after having the first cambelt changed, the tensioner was not changed at this point.
It's now had another cambelt change and new tensioner and oil cam seal.
The noise it not always constant, doesn't happen when you first start the car. The noise creeps up after 5 minutes and then fades to nothing. The noise then comes back while driving, even at idle.
Sometimes I'm sure the noise is coming from the carburettor area, it's really odd.
Can oil pumps make an electrical whine/rubbing noise?
Re: Engine noise
Hi Dalas, you say,
Could it be that the belt tension is not correct?
Too tight maybe?
As things begin to get hot a tight belt could begin to stress other components e.g., the tensioner.
Regards,
Steve
This makes me think that someone did the work for you.The noise started soon after having the first cambelt changed, the tensioner was not changed at this point.
It's now had another cambelt change and new tensioner and oil cam seal.
Could it be that the belt tension is not correct?
Too tight maybe?
As things begin to get hot a tight belt could begin to stress other components e.g., the tensioner.
Regards,
Steve
- Dallas
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- Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2020 10:06 pm
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- Location: Dorset
Re: Engine noise
Correct Steve, I had the work done by someone else, two different people to be precise.STEVEW wrote: ↑Thu Nov 05, 2020 7:34 pm Hi Dalas, you say,This makes me think that someone did the work for you.The noise started soon after having the first cambelt changed, the tensioner was not changed at this point.
It's now had another cambelt change and new tensioner and oil cam seal.
Could it be that the belt tension is not correct?
Too tight maybe?
As things begin to get hot a tight belt could begin to stress other components e.g., the tensioner.
Regards,
Steve
First guy changed just the cambelt, second guy changed cambelt, tensioner and cam seal, all done within 3 months of each other. I suppose having two different people doing the work, it's unlikely both would have tensioned the belt incorrectly, I hope not anyway. lol
It's strange, because the noise is not always present, for example I can drive from A to B with the noise, and then drive from B to A and have no noise. It's driving me mad.
Re: Engine noise
Then one solution would be to drive only from B to A.
Seriously though, it doesn't rule out that both have used the wrong tension, does it?
I've just referred to copies of the workshop manual I have which gives a certain procedure,
'Slacken timing belt tensioner bolts so that it comes up against timing belt when engine is cranked over twice. After cranking engine torque timing belt tensioner bolts as specified in "Technical Data" '
All very fine, but there is no torque figures given in the "Technical Data" so I checked in a Capri manual which is similar to a Haynes - nothing about torque figues for the cambelt tensioner.
I then delved into a Haynes Manual for the Sierra. (Don't ask!)
Here I discovered that there are two different methods for tensioning the cam belt on the SOHC engine, which I presume is the same as fitted to the Capri i.e., the Pinto.
'On models up to mid-1985...' [the tensioning method is as above.].
On models from mid-1985 (without a tensioner spring), move the tensioner to tension the belt roughly and nip up the tensioner bolts. Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft through two complete revolutions in a clockwise direction (... No1 cylinder...TDC). then turn the crankshaft 60° anti-clockwise (No 1 cylinder at 60°BTDC:
The belt tension should now be checked by applying the Ford tension tool to the longest belt run.
Used belt - 4 to 5 / New belt 10 to 11.'
A rough check of the belt tension can be made by twisting the belt between finger and thumb on the longest run. Without too much pressure this would be 90°
In short, on earlier models the tension is done by the correct torque loading of the tensioner: on later models it's done by using a tensionometer or at least as a rough guide, by checking the 90°twist.
In other words, there's plenty of room for error if the people who did the work for you are not aware of the above differences.
Finally, if someone out there knows the Pinto engine well and spots errors that I've made I would be grateful for the criticism.
All the best,
Steve
Seriously though, it doesn't rule out that both have used the wrong tension, does it?
I've just referred to copies of the workshop manual I have which gives a certain procedure,
'Slacken timing belt tensioner bolts so that it comes up against timing belt when engine is cranked over twice. After cranking engine torque timing belt tensioner bolts as specified in "Technical Data" '
All very fine, but there is no torque figures given in the "Technical Data" so I checked in a Capri manual which is similar to a Haynes - nothing about torque figues for the cambelt tensioner.
I then delved into a Haynes Manual for the Sierra. (Don't ask!)
Here I discovered that there are two different methods for tensioning the cam belt on the SOHC engine, which I presume is the same as fitted to the Capri i.e., the Pinto.
'On models up to mid-1985...' [the tensioning method is as above.].
On models from mid-1985 (without a tensioner spring), move the tensioner to tension the belt roughly and nip up the tensioner bolts. Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft through two complete revolutions in a clockwise direction (... No1 cylinder...TDC). then turn the crankshaft 60° anti-clockwise (No 1 cylinder at 60°BTDC:
The belt tension should now be checked by applying the Ford tension tool to the longest belt run.
Used belt - 4 to 5 / New belt 10 to 11.'
A rough check of the belt tension can be made by twisting the belt between finger and thumb on the longest run. Without too much pressure this would be 90°
In short, on earlier models the tension is done by the correct torque loading of the tensioner: on later models it's done by using a tensionometer or at least as a rough guide, by checking the 90°twist.
In other words, there's plenty of room for error if the people who did the work for you are not aware of the above differences.
Finally, if someone out there knows the Pinto engine well and spots errors that I've made I would be grateful for the criticism.
All the best,
Steve
- Dallas
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Re: Engine noise
Ok thanks Steve.
There's one thing for certain... it's getting blooming expensive.
There's one thing for certain... it's getting blooming expensive.
Re: Engine noise
Dallas wrote,
Then, as a quick check give the belt a "twist check". If it's difficult to twist it through 90° on the longest run it's probably too tight.
After that you can decide on what to do next.
Not necessarily. If you don't know how to remove the cam belt cover yourself, try to find someone who could do it for you. It can't be that difficult.There's one thing for certain... it's getting blooming expensive.
Then, as a quick check give the belt a "twist check". If it's difficult to twist it through 90° on the longest run it's probably too tight.
After that you can decide on what to do next.
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Re: Engine noise
Could be the distributor ......try removing that and see if it still makes the noise.
Sometimes I talk to myself ... and we both have a good laugh
- D366Y
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Re: Engine noise
I think removing the battery would yield a better result
A wise man once said... "you can never have too many capris - buy another"
It's me, I'm the wise man.
It's me, I'm the wise man.
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Re: Engine noise
Water pump maybe ?
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