cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by CapriFreak »

Mc Tool wrote: Wed Sep 09, 2020 10:08 pm The bombardment is well intentioned peeps trying to help. Every one has a plausible theory but as you see it can become a bit overwelming . Dude , no offence but I think you have reached the point where seeking professional help makes good sense. Im sure you have more than one issue and unless your well experienced with the whole motor diagnosing multiple faults can be damn near impossible . An experienced guy would be able to quickly fix the obvious faults ,set the auto choke ( they are really good when working properly) and fix your car . Paying someone to fix stuff really bugs me but I have learnt that sometimes the stress and frustration it saves is money well spent ,and if he's a good bloke he might go into a bit of detail about the job and you can learn a bit from him and the whole saga becomes a positive experience. :)
I might have been a bit confused and thought the previous guy meant I was bombarding us all with too much info, so I was apologising for that. I'm really appreciative of any help at all as various forums have helped me along way with this Car.

I think your right re-professional help. My only problem is trying to find a garage round here that dont just charge me £70 an hour and tell me it looks alright or needs this. One reason I did the rear axle and suspension myself is due to this. It might just have to wait a little while now. I'd love to drop it off at a garage and they just sort it for me believe me but with tight funds at the moment I was just trying my hardest to get it into a shape where i'm taking it with a specific problem.

I'll mess with it a bit longer over the weekend and see how funds lie/ask a few garages around here.
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by Bug »

I may have missed it, but whereabouts are you?

Surely, with the plethora of experience on this forum, you'd be better asking for help on here first.
Would only cost a few beers, plus parts and the chances are most garages these days would have to google 'carburettor' anyway!
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by Mc Tool »

weber32-36DGEV.jpg
here is a bit of a diagram might help ,probly not :) if you double click on it it might get bigger
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by STEVEW »

Bug wrote:
'...the chances are most garages these days would have to google 'carburettor' anyway!'
:lol:
:cheers:
They'd charge for one hour for looking for the socket for the diagnostic machine, which they couldn't find!
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by CapriFreak »

Bug wrote: Thu Sep 10, 2020 9:07 am I may have missed it, but whereabouts are you?

Surely, with the plethora of experience on this forum, you'd be better asking for help on here first.
Would only cost a few beers, plus parts and the chances are most garages these days would have to google 'carburettor' anyway!
Haha I think your right! Tbh the guy's i've been using are a great garage and into their old Ford/Cars too but, i'm used to northern hourly rates and I think a lot of garages down here get you in and out as quick as. At my last place in North London I had varied experience with Garages there.

I'm in Middlesex, Northolt area just off the A40. If anyone wants to help out for a few beers i'm more than happy to pick some up!
Mc Tool wrote: Thu Sep 10, 2020 9:40 am
weber32-36DGEV.jpg
here is a bit of a diagram might help ,probly not :) if you double click on it it might get bigger
Haha, this looks like the kind of thing that came with the weber rebuild kit. I think i'll pick up some new petrol tubing and re do the in and out with it (seen as its probably old stuff) and see how it reacts. Maybe the rebuild I did will have sorted the problem someone was trying to cure with this.. "mod"? If not I guess the float level isnt right.

Also, going to do an oil change and if all goes to plan... finally check that timing!!
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by Mc Tool »

If your going to check the float level make sure the float isn't full of fuel , brass ones you can hear it in there ,black plastic ones soak it up like a sponge and just feel heavier than a lump of foam should (not very scientific I know but thats how I twigged ) usually causes bad flooding at idle ,easy cold starting without the choke ,hard hot starts and crap idle .
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by CapriFreak »

Mc Tool wrote: Thu Sep 10, 2020 9:27 pm If your going to check the float level make sure the float isn't full of fuel , brass ones you can hear it in there ,black plastic ones soak it up like a sponge and just feel heavier than a lump of foam should (not very scientific I know but thats how I twigged ) usually causes bad flooding at idle ,easy cold starting without the choke ,hard hot starts and crap idle .
mines a brass one. Will watch out though. Mines more hard to start/needs full choke first time. Idle isnt great though. Once its been started its fairly easy to re start.
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by Mc Tool »

Make sure when setting float level you use the spec for a brass float as its different to the plastic spec ... brass float being heavier than the plastic one . :)
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by CapriFreak »

Mc Tool wrote: Fri Sep 11, 2020 10:11 am Make sure when setting float level you use the spec for a brass float as its different to the plastic spec ... brass float being heavier than the plastic one . :)
Just got the top of the carb off. Not seeing an awful lot for brass specs 41mm when “hanging” which seem to be the float dangling vertical not upside down ? I was checking in the Haynes but that says 51 hanging and 35mm closed which I think is for plastic floats? . I can only find one spec of 41mm for brass ?
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by Mc Tool »

Yeah 41mm between bottom of float to underside of top plate,light contact ,like not pushing the spring plunger on the needle in. I spose the brass floats will rest on the bottom of the float chamber when empty. Been thinking ,seeing as the symptoms seem a bit erratic ......any sign of water in the fuel . You would usually see it in the filter. Being heavier than the fuel it does funny things to mixture when the venturi effect tries to suck it up from float chamber.
To be sure it might pay to remove all jets, mixture needles and air correctors (noting where they came from )and give all passages a good flush out with degreaser or carb cleaner ,specially the idle transfer orifices (make sure you wear glasses as it can spray back at you and its real bad ju ju getting in your eyes ) . You should be able to squirt into one opening and see the stuff comming out another , pays to flush both ways .
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by Jimmy59 »

Sorry to butt in but I had the same problem on a 1.6 laser a few years ago. I tried everything but never did find what was wrong and I sold it like that. The guy that bought it knew about it cutting out and came back to me a few weeks later and told me the carb was loose where it was bolted on meaning air was getting in. Might not be your problem but its worth ruling out.
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by stevemarl »

This is only info I could find re. brass v. plastic, I doubt they would ever have changed:
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by Peter-S »

Float level specs can be found here:

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/317.htm
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by CapriFreak »

Cheers all I did find the float settings in the end and Set it to 41mm etc so all good. it looked ok before hand really but i made double sure. I've replaced the Dizzy Cap and Rotor arm. Took it for a spin yesterday and after getting a few streets away it was idling low but but not quite cutting out (and the sodding rocker is still leaking) so headed home. I threw a timing light on it although as I was in a rush I didnt undo the Vacume pipe. I only have TDC marked up and I understand its a crap video so will re do this again. Towards the end of this short video it looks to me that TDC mark wanders around a little bit? Like i said i'll do this again soon.

You'll want to look at it on full screen though. I didnt think the phone would pick it up and i had a neighbour chatting to me about a Cortina he once had so apologies.

[YouTube]https://youtu.be/S6hbWoAfRIk[/YouTube]

Good shout above re-carb. I still do wonder if thats the problem or another problem. I had a good go of tightening it down the other day and its fairly tight. Can't really get to one bolt though so it might be that.
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by pbar »

CapriFreak wrote: Tue Sep 15, 2020 7:50 pm I threw a timing light on it although as I was in a rush I didnt undo the Vacume pipe. I only have TDC marked up and I understand its a crap video so will re do this again.
Mine 2.0 Laser runs great set at 8 degrees, which I think is actually the standard spec too. So may be a good starting point for you also. Definitely remove and plug the pipe though. Just use a screwdriver of similar, and rest it out of harms way.
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by CapriFreak »

Ok heres a video on the timing... Sometimes you get in it and once its started it drives ok, sometimes it cuts out after being on choke but when it decided to act up like it did today the revs go from around 1000/800 - 0 when you press the brakes ( this will make it snuff/cut out) and now i've upgraded the bulbs from those dim 5w to 20w using the indicators makes it jog valiantly.
I wanted to drive the Car around to check the timing when it was at thermostat opening temp but it was impossible today. It warm in this video and the vacuums is plugged both ends after the initial try (forgot to mention that in the video) skip to towards the end to see it wandering like mad.

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzWvms3 ... ro%26Rusty[/video]
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by pbar »

Have you investigated the possibility of a fuel blockage? For example if there is crud wandering in the carb channels, it could randomly find a jet and block it, car would stumble and/or cutout then.

With carb in place you can remove the idle jet and mixture screw and blow compressed air both ways to blow crud out, you can buy compessed air in a spray can if you don't have a compressor. This will clean the idle circuit

Or you can remove the air box and put your hand over the top of the carb whilst revving it, just for a couple of seconds, to suck the crud out. Thanks to Martin (Bug) for this tip.

You mention that it cuts out when you press the brake. Are you sure that's not just because the car returns to idle then, and if there is crud in the carb idle channels, that's the reason it would cut out. The idle circuit is not in use when driving the car with higher revs obviously. The compressed air method above will clean the idle circuit.
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by CapriFreak »

pbar wrote: Wed Sep 16, 2020 9:12 pm Have you investigated the possibility of a fuel blockage? For example if there is crud wandering in the carb channels, it could randomly find a jet and block it, car would stumble and/or cutout then.

With carb in place you can remove the idle jet and mixture screw and blow compressed air both ways to blow crud out, you can buy compessed air in a spray can if you don't have a compressor. This will clean the idle circuit

Or you can remove the air box and put your hand over the top of the carb whilst revving it, just for a couple of seconds, to suck the crud out. Thanks to Martin (Bug) for this tip.

You mention that it cuts out when you press the brake. Are you sure that's not just because the car returns to idle then, and if there is crud in the carb idle channels, that's the reason it would cut out. The idle circuit is not in use when driving the car with higher revs obviously. The compressed air method above will clean the idle circuit.
Will give that a go. I did re build it recently and its not had a lot of use, was ok at first. The spark plugs are looking a bit black too so i guess its running rich. Did you see the video regarding the wandering timing I just uploaded? would love some opinions on whats happening there. Now ive upgraded the indicator bulbs from the odd 5 watt front ones nobody could see, now it bucks and jumps when using the indicators. It was alarming when I started driving round the block and I'm guessing why someone put 5watt bulbs in it. I've swapped the Dizzy Cap and Rotor arm (cant remember if i said). Sometimes its ok to drive and sometimes jumps about . Not ruling the Carb out, thats why i rebuilt it.
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by stevemarl »

If it `leans out` when you press the brakes it could be a perforated diaphragm in the servo which opens up when flexed causing an air leak? If you stop the engine do you still get the 1st 3 pedals with servo assistance from the residual vacuum in the servo/ any whooshing, whistling noises when you press brake? Even if carb wasc rebuilt, it could still have sucked up some crap from the tank/lines as Paul says, try cleaning ut the jets & fit an inline filter twixt pump & carb.
Other than that, the tickover must be incredibly poor if the added load on the alternator will stall it.
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Re: cutting out problem (2.0 - 32/36 weber)

Post by CapriFreak »

stevemarl wrote: Wed Sep 16, 2020 9:56 pm If it `leans out` when you press the brakes it could be a perforated diaphragm in the servo which opens up when flexed causing an air leak? If you stop the engine do you still get the 1st 3 pedals with servo assistance from the residual vacuum in the servo/ any whooshing, whistling noises when you press brake? Even if carb wasc rebuilt, it could still have sucked up some crap from the tank/lines as Paul says, try cleaning ut the jets & fit an inline filter twixt pump & carb.
Other than that, the tickover must be incredibly poor if the added load on the alternator will stall it.
No wooshing sounds at all. Pretty sure i get the first few pedals after the car is off. checked it a few months back before it went to the garage (i's replaced the calipers/some lines so took it for a check). It was missing pedal bushes so was horrid on braking, the garage said they thought the servo was funny but on checking it , it was fine. It doesnt always do this by the way. I took it out last week and it was ok. Got it up to temp, adjusted the mixture and idle as I thought that was the problem and it was fine to drive/ press the brakes and slow down.
i'll check the carb again but does this explain the odd timing wandering around in the video above (see towards the end) and using the indicators making the car jump all over the place? It looks like its at 12 BTCD if you havnt seen the vid on tickover before it goes a bit off.
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