2.8i cutting out won’t run

[Oipallett]

Hi guys hoping to pick your brains abit
Having a issue with my 2.8i been a long resto and finally got the the point where I’m trying to get it running but it keeps cutting out after 2 seconds

Have messed around with everything most stuff is new
Did have it running and ticking over fine but then the accumulator started leaking out the breather hole so replaced with a spare I had and went back to cutting out after couple seconds so I bought a new Bosch accumulator (didn’t seem to have a breather hole on) and is still doing the same thing

Unless I have the pipes around the wrong way
I am right in saying the big pipe comes from the tank and the small goes to the metering head?

It seems to be a fuel issues somewhere but I’ve ran out of ideas

The metering plunger is free and moves
The tank is new
Pump is new
Second new fuel filter in case That was issue
New injectors
New fuel pipes

Hopefully it’s something small that I’m missing any help would be so appreciated

It’s been 4 years since it was running so I’ve forgotten How I took everything apart always the way

Thanks in advance

[Andrew 2.8i]

Hi,
I find that this site is helpful for troubleshooting fuel related problems.
https://www.zeepoort.nl/jetronic/K-Jetr ... oting.html

You are correct in saying that the bigger connection on the accumulator comes from the pump and the smaller one goes to the metering head.
I hope that you find the issue.

Andrew.

[Peter-S]

Hi guys hoping to pick your brains abit
Having a issue with my 2.8i been a long resto and finally got the the point where I’m trying to get it running but it keeps cutting out after 2 seconds

Have messed around with everything most stuff is new
Did have it running and ticking over fine but then the accumulator started leaking out the breather hole so replaced with a spare I had and went back to cutting out after couple seconds so I bought a new Bosch accumulator (didn’t seem to have a breather hole on) and is still doing the same thing

Unless I have the pipes around the wrong way
I am right in saying the big pipe comes from the tank and the small goes to the metering head?

It seems to be a fuel issues somewhere but I’ve ran out of ideas

The metering plunger is free and moves
The tank is new
Pump is new
Second new fuel filter in case That was issue
New injectors
New fuel pipes

Hopefully it’s something small that I’m missing any help would be so appreciated

It’s been 4 years since it was running so I’ve forgotten How I took everything apart always the way

Thanks in advance

If it starts then the reassembly must be close on being right!
The warm up regulator is a common issue. There is a gauze filter under the larger banjo connection and if that blocks it affects fuel flow so worth checking that.
Although the metering plunger is free that doesn't necessarily mean that fuel is getting through to the injectors - have you checked that it is getting through to the plugs OK?
Has the metering mixture been adjusted at all - if it has then it may be that it needs tweaking - possibly running too lean. Check the other bits first though you don't want to start adjusting the mixture settings unless you have to. Also, is the air sensor plate in the metering unit moving freely and set at the correct level?

[Oipallett]

Thanks for getting back to me it’s doing my head in now, I’ll check the gauze filter today

Don’t think the mixture has been messed with where’s this air sensor on the metering head I don’t recall that

Thanks

[Paul G]

It's the big round flap that goes up and down.

[Oipallett]

Oh I with you yeah it all moves fine and tried holding it open while starting but is still the same

Cleared the warm up regulator out and is still exactly the same, it didn’t seem too dirty but inside the regulator below the springs is like a plunger that doesn’t move but looks like it should is this anything to do with the air flow

Cheers again

[Bug]

Are you 100% certain the plunger in the metering unit is moving?
Just because the flap moves it doesn't necessarily mean that is.
It is pushed down by fuel pressure directed from the Warm Up Regulator.
When the engine is cold, this bleeds off some of the pressure, allowing the plunger to move up further for a given airflow, hence richening the mixture.
Therefore it is possible the plunger is stuck down, or maybe, as suggested, the WUR is applying too much pressure to the top of it.

[Bug]

Have you got fresh fuel in it?

Have you done the fuel delivery test?
The fuel pump delivery rate is checked at the return line at the fuel metering head. It is checked here because it not only checks the pressure from the pump, bit it also checks to see if there are any blockages on the way. For example, the fuel filter maybe.The return line union is on the passenger side of the metering head and is the larger of the 2 unions side by side and has an arrow on it pointing away from the metering head. Attach a pipe of approximately 2 feet long to the short rubber hose coming from the union and place it in a measuring container, then substitute the fuel pump relay with the heated rear window relay and switch on the ignition. The fuel pump should deliver a minimum of 750cc of fuel in 30 seconds. If this is not obtained, check the voltage of the fuel pump. A minimum of 11.5 volts is required and if this is OK, repeat the test at the fuel filter inlet pipe. If the required amount of fuel is obtained then the fuel filter must be partially blocked.

[Stevo]

Have you checked that the fuel return into the tank isn’t blocked up?

Found this was the one issue stopping a 2.8 running that we were trying to get going after a long lay up and like on your car, it would run for two or three seconds before the actual internal return pipe in the fuel tank was cleared.

[Oipallett]

So I have tested the flow as the fuel pipe I put on had a small diameter so I got one that was larger fitted that and did the flow test

It only pumps through 550ml
The pump was only reading 10.5 volts
So I put the battery straight to it and it pumped out 800ml

So it seems it’s loosing 2volts somewhere along the line

Does anyone know what else is powered of that fuse/relay that could be dragging it down

Suppose it could be a dodgy earth or connection somewhere, but I’m no wiz with electrics

Any ideas
Again greatly appreciate the help

[Oipallett]

So I have tested the flow as the fuel pipe I put on had a small diameter so I got one that was larger fitted that and did the flow test

It only pumps through 550ml
The pump was only reading 10.5 volts
So I put the battery straight to it and it pumped out 800ml

So it seems it’s loosing 2volts somewhere along the line

Does anyone know what else is powered of that fuse/relay that could be dragging it down

Suppose it could be a dodgy earth or connection somewhere, but I’m no wiz with electrics

Any ideas
Again greatly appreciate the help

[Bug]

Well it does at least sound like we're making a little progress here.
Narrowed it down to fuel delivery from the pump.

Could be something as a corroded connection somewhere.

But! I would check the relay, I assume you know where it is? Pink one (if genuine) up beside the bonnet release handle.
It has a separate fuse kind of attached to it in a holder.
Over the years I had a few of these relays that overheated and eventually melted. It is possible yours may be on its way?

[Oipallett]

Yeah Ive replaced the relay already it had seen better days, the fused relay seems to be alright too

Getting good power at the relay so I’m thinking it has to be after this it’s dropping power

[Bug]

Well at least we've ruled out a potential fire

[Bug]

OK, so another straw to grasp at for you.
I think if memory serves me right that the loom runs down the driver's side sill, under the plastic trim.
Again, many times I've seen the trim screws cutting through the wires if there's been a little lack of care when fitting the trim back on.

[Major_Tom]

Ah yes a common issue. All you need to do is diagnose the fault and then remedy it and it'll run fine.

[Mc Tool]

beats me how we won the war with you lot on our side brilliant in-sight Tom

[ollyw]

Iirc the earth for the pump is a self tapping screw and eye crimp located under the boot floor. It may be worth cleaning this up in case you have a high resistance point there.

Olly W

[Not_Anumber]

Has sorting out the earth connection resolved this for you ?

[Major_Tom]

beats me how we won the war with you lot on our side brilliant in-sight Tom

Only the brightest and the best mate