Clutch cable
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- Posts: 41
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- Car(s): Ford Capri 2.8 special (restoration project)
Clutch cable
Hello again guys.
I am wondering if anybody had any knowledge of the route and size of Capri 2.8 cable I’ve had 3 different cables Recently and currently mine is about 95cm and the 1 before was 110cm or there abouts. I have read it’s supposed to go behind the engine mount then into bellhousing but I feel the 95 cable is to short for that. I was looking into getting a longer cable but again everything says it should be shorter cable for 2.8. Problem I’m having is clutch pedal bite is just above floor and that is to low and also to get the pedal to bite there it needs to be adjusted right up so threads are along at end of nylon bush.
I am wondering if anybody had any knowledge of the route and size of Capri 2.8 cable I’ve had 3 different cables Recently and currently mine is about 95cm and the 1 before was 110cm or there abouts. I have read it’s supposed to go behind the engine mount then into bellhousing but I feel the 95 cable is to short for that. I was looking into getting a longer cable but again everything says it should be shorter cable for 2.8. Problem I’m having is clutch pedal bite is just above floor and that is to low and also to get the pedal to bite there it needs to be adjusted right up so threads are along at end of nylon bush.
Re: Clutch cable
It is supposed to be the shorter version, but i had to bodge mine with a long one once, and apart from the routing being a pig the adjustment etc was the same.Pageyboy wrote: ↑Mon Jun 01, 2020 11:01 am Hello again guys.
I am wondering if anybody had any knowledge of the route and size of Capri 2.8 cable I’ve had 3 different cables Recently and currently mine is about 95cm and the 1 before was 110cm or there abouts. I have read it’s supposed to go behind the engine mount then into bellhousing but I feel the 95 cable is to short for that. I was looking into getting a longer cable but again everything says it should be shorter cable for 2.8. Problem I’m having is clutch pedal bite is just above floor and that is to low and also to get the pedal to bite there it needs to be adjusted right up so threads are along at end of nylon bush.
Before you waste money on another one, I think you may have a different problem, as discussed on your other post?
If you think on it logically, provided the end fittings are the same, the length of cable between them should make no difference at all.
Do you have the correct release bearing and actuating fork? Is the fork correctly located?
Are you adjusting the pedal so it sits approximately level with the brake pedal, and had about 1.5cm loose travel if you lift it up?
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- Posts: 41
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Re: Clutch cable
Yes I’m fairly confident the clutch fork and bearing all correct and the fact it’s had 2 clutches 1st 1 was original and 1st cable was original but I’m sure that snapped definitely not fully but I did hear a ping when I pressed clutch and from then on that’s when I started to have problems. Obviously the cable was removed when car got painted and when I removed the first cable I never checked where it was routed as I didn’t think changing a cable would be such a pain. When 2nd cable was replaced it did work but again had to tighten it a couple time just to get gears so thought it was clutch failing. All is good apart from biting point. I was thinking that maybe the cable needs to be really tight or round engine mount it might make it tighter. Pedal is level with brake pedal also
Re: Clutch cable
The cable runs within a sleeve, on the same principle as a bowden cable. If both ends are anchored correctly then the length and route of the cable makes no difference at all. In fact, securing it too tightly will only lead to damage of the cable.
I would be happy to be proved wrong as that will give you an easy fix, but I still maintain that you should consider looking elsewhere.
Are you 100% certain the correct release bearing was fitted?
Basically you need to push the springs in the middle of the clutch plate far enough for them to separate the friction plate from the drive. If yours only bites right near the bottom of the pedal, then the pedal (and consequently the actuating fork) are having to move too far before they apply enough pressure to the springs. So, if you imagine your release bearing being too slim, this will have that effect.
Looking forward to hearing the solution.
EDIT: I used to have a clutch that 'pinged' on occasion. It turned out it was simply the return spring on the pedal catching.
I'm not sure a clutch cable would only break a little bit? Even with half the strands gone, it should still work in the same manner, just wouldn't put up with so much force before it finally snapped.
I would be happy to be proved wrong as that will give you an easy fix, but I still maintain that you should consider looking elsewhere.
Are you 100% certain the correct release bearing was fitted?
Basically you need to push the springs in the middle of the clutch plate far enough for them to separate the friction plate from the drive. If yours only bites right near the bottom of the pedal, then the pedal (and consequently the actuating fork) are having to move too far before they apply enough pressure to the springs. So, if you imagine your release bearing being too slim, this will have that effect.
Looking forward to hearing the solution.
EDIT: I used to have a clutch that 'pinged' on occasion. It turned out it was simply the return spring on the pedal catching.
I'm not sure a clutch cable would only break a little bit? Even with half the strands gone, it should still work in the same manner, just wouldn't put up with so much force before it finally snapped.
Re: Clutch cable
Its only the difference between lengths of inner and outer that affects travel: It could be 3m long but as long as the difference is the same it will work.
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Re: Clutch cable
Ok cheers guys I’ve been out trying to get the cable to tighten up and no joy to be honest just skint fingers ha ha. Well looks like more money as usual with this bloody thing. Anyway cheers for input I’ll let you no if anything different when I tighten it back up but I doubt it ha ha
Re: Clutch cable
Have you had a look around the pedal box to check nothings cracked or broken on that or the pedal itself (cos you mentioned clicking)?
Re: Clutch cable
That is a very valid point.
I suspect you've binned the old cable? If not, measure the amount of inner cable that projects out of the sleeve (with it pulled all the way to one end).
Compare that with your replacement ones. It may be that the inner cable is too long?
Or maybe someone with a spare could do that measurement for you?
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Re: Clutch cable
Hi yes that’s exactly it. I somehow binned the original cable without thinking as I thought it was done. Now all I have is 2 aftermarket cables and both are different lengths and I do feel that the inner cables are 2 long on both but when looking online it doesn’t give much in the way of inner cable lengths. 1 things for sure something is wrong somewhere. I no the gearbox is worst case but I can’t think how that would make the cables not to line up.
Re: Clutch cable
Where did the cables come from?Pageyboy wrote: ↑Tue Jun 02, 2020 7:54 am Hi yes that’s exactly it. I somehow binned the original cable without thinking as I thought it was done. Now all I have is 2 aftermarket cables and both are different lengths and I do feel that the inner cables are 2 long on both but when looking online it doesn’t give much in the way of inner cable lengths. 1 things for sure something is wrong somewhere. I no the gearbox is worst case but I can’t think how that would make the cables not to line up.
Burton Power are usually the best bet for Old Ford stuff. They list both the 4-cylinder and 2.8i versions.
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Re: Clutch cable
Cable that’s on it now is from burton and the other come from Tickover.
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Re: Clutch cable
Hi thanks that’s actually a good idea I never thought about packing that bit with washers. I had the interior stripped last week checking pedal box as I thought that but it’s solid and I couldn’t get it to move. I felt it was a bit squint but couldn’t get it to move. It’s had 2 clutches 3 cables but still getting no where hence me thinking the pedal box. Apparently there is bairns on a bush that fail but almost impossible to get to without taking it out and I don’t fancy doing that to be honest ha ha
Re: Clutch cable
I wasn`t thinking bushes so much as someting maybe cracked on the pedal, which would only be visible when you pressed it. I did once have a Vauxhall where the pedals were notorious for cracking: still worked but the feeling was very `spongey` with occasional clicks.
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Re: Clutch cable
I did look but I couldn’t see any cracks and the bush on top of pedal all good and tight. Next time I’ve got 5 min I’ll have a look at packing the bush at bellhousing up with washers maybe that will do the job.
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Re: Clutch cable
Is the retaining pin that locates the clutch fork on the nearside of the bell housing still there? Just wondered if it has sheared off the perhaps the fork is moving around a bit and that's causing the problem
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Re: Clutch cable
I’m not sure and have no idea of such a thing. I’ll have a look next time I’m out at it. I would think it’s there but sounds simple enough to check. Near side of the bellhousing as in passenger side ?