Ignition barrel de sticking

[Calovera]

So the ignition can be such a pain to get a key into. Sometimes there will be no issues, othertimes I'll be fiddling with it for 5 minutes or more just trying to get the key in. Just had a new key cut today with the same problem.
Barrel moves fine once key is in, unlocks the doors and boot fine too.

Any suggestions or should I just replace to barrel? If replacement, any good sources?
Thanks!

[Mc Tool]

Give it a shot of monkey piss ( Kiwi for " apply CRC ")

[Andrew 2.8i]

So the ignition can be such a pain to get a key into. Sometimes there will be no issues, othertimes I'll be fiddling with it for 5 minutes or more just trying to get the key in. Just had a new key cut today with the same problem.
Barrel moves fine once key is in, unlocks the doors and boot fine too.
Any suggestions or should I just replace to barrel? If replacement, any good sources?
Thanks!

Hi,
My guess would be that the tumbling pins within the barrel are sticking, perhaps due to years of grime build up.
If you are competent, take the barrel apart to give it a clean. If you're going to replace the ignition barrel anyway you've got nothing to lose and a lot to gain.

Andrew.

[stevemarl]

"My guess would be that the tumbling pins within the barrel are sticking, perhaps due to years of grime build up.
If you are competent, take the barrel apart to give it a clean"
Andrew`s right, it will be years of neglect, but Isn`t the ignition barrel / lock assembly held in by shear-headed bolts as a security measure?* Which would mean locating a new set of bolts before you start. If you can`t locate any it may be worth trying some lubricant, maybe working graphite grease or similar into the lock then working the key? (I`ve used spray on lubricants periodically without a problem, but people say these can cause gumming up.)

* Like the rear number plate bolts.

[Andrew 2.8i]

but Isn`t the ignition barrel / lock assembly held in by shear-headed bolts as a security measure?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-IGNITIO ... Sw401aOp7l
They'll also be needed if the barrel is replaced.

Andrew.

[Bug]

Put the key in and turn it to position one.
Then insert a small pin punch into the hole under the outer ignition barrel casing and push it up to take the pressure off the spring inside.
Then pull the key out and the barrel comes with it.

Simply soak the whole thing in WD40 or similar, work it about by moving the key around, then push it back into the main assembly.

Job done.

Have changed a few barrels to get matching keys over the years.

Much easier than taking the shear screws out, cos even with the whole thing off the car you still can't access the moving parts very easily.

[stevemarl]

Have changed a few barrels to get matching keys over the years.

It`s bits of knowledge like this that make people such as yourself invaluable to forums like this Martin! Glad you still call by now and then.

[pbar]

Have changed a few barrels to get matching keys over the years.

It`s bits of knowledge like this that make people such as yourself invaluable to forums like this Martin! Glad you still call by now and then.

Well said, seconded

[Mc Tool]

,yeah that was a good tip ,learn sommat every day ,
Thanks

[Bug]

Thanks for the kind words gents.
I look in from time to time and it's good to be able to help out.

No more Capris for me i'm afraid........too many memories of my late wife.

Next best thing though, a Z4 with the folding hard top. Long bonnet, RWD, similar to a Capri in many respects.

Will always take an interest in all your goings on though

[Calovera]

Put the key in and turn it to position one.
Then insert a small pin punch into the hole under the outer ignition barrel casing and push it up to take the pressure off the spring inside.
Then pull the key out and the barrel comes with it.

Simply soak the whole thing in WD40 or similar, work it about by moving the key around, then push it back into the main assembly.

Job done.

Have changed a few barrels to get matching keys over the years.

Much easier than taking the shear screws out, cos even with the whole thing off the car you still can't access the moving parts very easily.

I'll be giving that a go! Gave the barrel a good shot of lock(?) lubricant. Seemed to have done the trick.

[Bug]

Put the key in and turn it to position one.
Then insert a small pin punch into the hole under the outer ignition barrel casing and push it up to take the pressure off the spring inside.
Then pull the key out and the barrel comes with it.

Simply soak the whole thing in WD40 or similar, work it about by moving the key around, then push it back into the main assembly.

Job done.

Have changed a few barrels to get matching keys over the years.

Much easier than taking the shear screws out, cos even with the whole thing off the car you still can't access the moving parts very easily.

I'll be giving that a go! Gave the barrel a good shot of lock(?) lubricant. Seemed to have done the trick.

Well hopefully that'll fix it for you, but of course, the muck you've shifted can't move far so it may get sticky again.
If so, try my method as that'll let the muck clear away.

[STEVEW]

Hello Bug

Great tip about the ignition barrel, much appreciated.

[Bug]

Hello Bug

Great tip about the ignition barrel, much appreciated.

Cheers.
Biggest gripe I have with forums is no-one ever letting you know you've been helpful.
So a simple reply like yours makes it all worthwhile to me.

[D366Y]

Quick question if I may - I've taken my barrel apart to clean it all up and get the key working as it was on a different key, but I can't for the life of me get the barrel to go back into the casing with the last bit in place...

I know it goes right at the end of the lock and get's half in place but doesn't go any lower so I can't get past the barrel end?

Any suggestions please??

[Bug]

Usually the key has to go in the slot so that all the 'sticky-outy' parts can fall in towards the centre. When the key is out, these move outwards, that's how the lock works.
So, if you've changed the key, I'm assuming you have fitted corresponding moving parts to match that key?
If not, then I'd guess the key is stopping the last part moving inwards all the way.

Hope that makes sense? Really hard to describe.

[D366Y]

Yeah that makes sense - I've spent ages matching up all the pins so that it all sits flush with the barrel when the key is in place, but the last part is the only thing that now doesn't draw in - is it part of the steering lock and could I live without it?

That last part I can't get in - do they match each individual key as well? If so I won't be able to match this key to it I'm guessing....

Thanks
Danny

[Andrew 2.8i]

That last part I can't get in - do they match each individual key as well? If so I won't be able to match this key to it I'm guessing....

Hi Danny,
Although I've never deconstructed an ignition lock, I'm guessing that you are correct and the bit sticking up locks the steering when the key is wit drawn from the barrell. I'm certain that piece could be left off, the key would turn and the ignition would function without it, but doing so would leave you with one less security feature for your car.
Don't you have the original ignition lock that the key fits to swap the bits over?


Andrew.

[D366Y]

That last part I can't get in - do they match each individual key as well? If so I won't be able to match this key to it I'm guessing....

Hi Danny,
Although I've never deconstructed an ignition lock, I'm guessing that you are correct and the bit sticking up locks the steering when the key is wit drawn from the barrell. I'm certain that piece could be left off, the key would turn and the ignition would function without it, but doing so would leave you with one less security feature for your car.
Don't you have the original ignition lock that the key fits to swap the bits over?


Andrew.

Hi Andrew,

I thought it would be the steering lock to be honest - I know the key turns in the barrel fine and when the key is withdrawn it all goes back to how it should anyway so I'm pretty sure it will work when I put it back in.

This is the original ignition barrel, and I was hoping to change everything onto one key but as I couldn't change over the book lock tumblers (because no-one could remember how to get the cover off and everyone said it was a bad idea so I didn't risk it) then I'm having to work with the key for the boot lock and change everything over onto that key... the door locks are fine but just this last part of the ignition now!

I'll put it back in and see if it does work and if it is the steering lock and see where to go from there..

Cheers
Danny

[Bug]

If I remember right, if you unscrewed the whole ignition assembly you should see a lug, like a door lock that sticks out and engages with the steering mechanism to prevent it turning.
It can only do this when the barrel is in position 0.
Turning the ignition barrel has the same effect as unlocking a door.
So, providing that the ignition barrel fits in properly and that the key fits it and is able to turn in it, then all should be well.
All you are actually doing by leaving one piece out is removing one part of the unique key code.

Let's face it, the ignition lock and ignition key are so easily circumnavigated these days that the security feature of a unique key is rendered more or less useless anyway.

Only other thing to be sure of is that the barrel snaps tightly into place. If it is not secured it is possible it could come out if you catch it on your knee for example. Then the lock will engage. Not ideal at any speed!

Please remember that I last tinkered with a Capri at least 3 years ago now, so my memory may be a little fuzzy. But it is all simple mechanics so you should be able to make sense of it.