Hi I’ve got a 2.0 pinto with a manual choke. If the choke is on and the car has been running a couple of minutes.
If I then try to start it after the choke has been on the car is flooded.
I have to clean the spark plugs to get it to start again.
If I disconnect the choke and turn the idle screw in to compensate there been no choke it seems fine. Thanks
Choke flooding engine
-
- Donator
- Posts: 2362
- Joined: Sat May 17, 2014 8:34 pm
- Car(s): 1980 mk3 capri 2l ohc T9 , Toyota Blade Master 3.5l V6, Paso , 850T,rd400, 900ss
- Location: Invercargill New Zealand
Re: Choke flooding engine
Sorta thinking aloud here , 1st I would be a bit suss about the ignition , it should be able to blow off a bit of fuel without having to clean(dry) the plugs, you should be able to dip them plugs in oil and have it fire up. Make sure you are not using both resistor leads and resistor plugs ,and check the resistor type leads with a meter for continuity , should be several thousand ohms not open circuit , and ,of course check the timing is correct and the advances (centrifugal and vacuum ) are working
2nd check your valve clearances ,specially intake, if they close up to 6 thou (ish) they misbehave at slow revs and make other adjustments a pain in the arse to get right
3, check the float in the carb is actually floating . The black plastic ones can soak up fuel and cause over fuelling dramas specially if car is parked pointing uphill.
4 , set the idle mix screw with a vacuum gauge when the engine is up to temp.
And think about how much choke it actually needs, probly only needs full choke for starting and 1st 5 sec for the first start from cold , and after 20 sec probly needs only 1/2.......as you say the fast idle is probly more helpful and you can set that to be more or less at a given choke position
That oughta keep you out of the wife's hair for a while
2nd check your valve clearances ,specially intake, if they close up to 6 thou (ish) they misbehave at slow revs and make other adjustments a pain in the arse to get right
3, check the float in the carb is actually floating . The black plastic ones can soak up fuel and cause over fuelling dramas specially if car is parked pointing uphill.
4 , set the idle mix screw with a vacuum gauge when the engine is up to temp.
And think about how much choke it actually needs, probly only needs full choke for starting and 1st 5 sec for the first start from cold , and after 20 sec probly needs only 1/2.......as you say the fast idle is probly more helpful and you can set that to be more or less at a given choke position
That oughta keep you out of the wife's hair for a while
Sometimes I talk to myself ... and we both have a good laugh
-
- Donator
- Posts: 3450
- Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2008 8:00 am
- Car(s): Rat - GONE
2.8 - GONE
Volvo - GONE
Only 2 Zetec SE Fezzas left now, 1.6 ghia gone. Mk 1 Focus replaces, sticking with 1.6 Zetec SE - Location: Hatfield Peverel Essex
Re: Choke flooding engine
Before you start messing around with carb settings make sure everything else is in tip top condition. Valve clearances, plugs, points, leads, ignition timing must all be spot on before you adjust idle mixture or choke settings.
Screwing the mixture screw in and out in isolation to compensate for poor starting is muppetry.
Re: Choke flooding engine
I’ve not been messing with the mixture screw just the fast idle screw. Timing is at 8 Btdc. value clearances are fine new leads and plugs. And has electronic ignition from a Sierra and think engine is from a Sierra. Starts no problem and runs fine if you don’t use choke to start it.
-
- Donator
- Posts: 2362
- Joined: Sat May 17, 2014 8:34 pm
- Car(s): 1980 mk3 capri 2l ohc T9 , Toyota Blade Master 3.5l V6, Paso , 850T,rd400, 900ss
- Location: Invercargill New Zealand
Re: Choke flooding engine
Well that's good then if it also starts well when hot I don't see the problem . Maybe the thing is well sorted and just don't need choke. ...some engines don't.
See if you can't adjust the choke/fast idle so that the 1st 1/4 pull on the knob ( ) gives you a bit of fast idle only ,and the other 3/4 brings the choke in .
See if you can't adjust the choke/fast idle so that the 1st 1/4 pull on the knob ( ) gives you a bit of fast idle only ,and the other 3/4 brings the choke in .
Sometimes I talk to myself ... and we both have a good laugh
-
- Donator
- Posts: 3450
- Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2008 8:00 am
- Car(s): Rat - GONE
2.8 - GONE
Volvo - GONE
Only 2 Zetec SE Fezzas left now, 1.6 ghia gone. Mk 1 Focus replaces, sticking with 1.6 Zetec SE - Location: Hatfield Peverel Essex
Re: Choke flooding engine
Pinto's generally don't need choke. Provided the engine is well tuned you can remove the assembly and even the flaps. Press the accelerator fully down quick to operate the pump jet before starting and it'll fire up easy, no choke at all. Glyn used to say removing the flaps from a 32/36 or 38 weber got you a couple of extra horses but I'm not so sure
-
- Donator
- Posts: 894
- Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2017 3:54 pm
- Car(s): Just sold 1983 2.8 Injection 5 speed. Currently restoring another classic Previously owned 2 Capris. Likely to own another at some point
Re: Choke flooding engine
I changed a 38/38 on a Pinto to manual choke and found i hardly needed to use the choke at all for starting. It was really only needed to set a fast idle for the first few minutes of warmup.
Re: Choke flooding engine
Just thought I would give a update it turned out I had the wrong spark plugs in it they were ngk resistor ones. Still don’t need the choke but I will set it up to give it fast idle. Runs even better now. Thanks for everyone help