Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

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D366Y
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Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by D366Y »

Afternoon guys,

I'm fairly certain my rear driver's side drum brakes are sticking (makes a horrible squeaking noise on a rotation and when I get out that one wheel is noticeably hotter than the other side) but I just wanted to check if there was a difference in different types of cylinder before I go buying one?

I'm also after a new springs kit so I can rebuild both sides at the same time, hopefully both of these links will fit the car without issue??

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Qh-W ... Swa~JbPMQ5

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REAR-BRAKE-S ... XQya1Q7nqH

Also my handbrake on both cars is crap - one barely works at all, the other keeps making the dash light up and seems to be engaging every now and then randomly until it's warmed up a bit.

CCI want £15+postage (not likely!) but have found this again on :ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-CAPRI-M ... SwI0danwkl

I know there is a rod like thing as well that goes across to the other wheel - would I need to replace this as well as the cable?

Thanks!
Danny
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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by Paul G »

Crap handbrakes and binding wheels are more often than not caused by the handbrake and adjuster levers inside the drum. You need to get the drum off and check that they are pivoting correctly and not seized up.

You may not need to go buying handbrake cables etc when it is such a simple fix as to dismantle the shoes, free off and lubricate these pivots and put it all back together.
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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by Jasonmarie »

Hope you get it sorted but the postage prices do seem to be going threw the roof I sell clocks and pocket watches and have had to put my prices up .
But as Paul says check the cable and adjuster first but I guess you may have already been there .

It might be them lovely wheels I would remove and let me have them and I can give you some laser wheels mate . Might try this with Nick as well . :beer:
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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by D366Y »

Thanks for the help guys, I'll have a look when I get a chance later this week! :)

Sorry to disappoint Jason but I don't think my wheels are going anywhere... you can have my rotten rusty GL steels if I still get your laser wheels in return? :lol:
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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by Peter-S »

They might be fine but check the bore of the brake cylinders you link to is correct as they are listed for a 1.3 Capri
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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by Andrew 2.8i »

I think Peter is correct as Tickover list this cylinder to fit late Mk2 and Mk3 1.6 and 2.0, no mention of the 1.3.
I would guess therefore that the cylinder to fit the 1.3 is different.
https://www.tickover.co.uk/shop/content ... /p417.html
It just goes to show that if you buy from the specialists you are more likely to get correct parts than if you buy from unknown Ebay sellers.

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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by pbar »

I got a brake cylinder for the Capri from my local motor factors once, and it didn't fit. On checking the code numbers online it was for a Granada. So, if you happen to buy one which states Granada then it probably won't fit a Capri! The guy in the shop didn't realise he had to delve further to find the correct one.
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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by D366Y »

Fair play, thanks for checking guys! I wanted to check if there was a difference between the 1.3 ones so will probably have to look at Tickover instead if they do need changing,

Cheers
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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by pbar »

Your local car shop will be able to get them, mine did.
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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by pbar »

Just had a look on CarParts4Less, they are just over £8 with free delivery.
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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by D366Y »

pbar wrote:Just had a look on CarParts4Less, they are just over £8 with free delivery.
Awesome sauce, will have to strip it back when I get some time and let you know what the issue was and how (if) it gets fixed!

Cheers
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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by pbar »

It's an amazing site, I recently ordered a front brake fitting kit for the Capri, includes shims, springs, etc. Less than a fiver delivered.
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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by D366Y »

Paul G wrote:Crap handbrakes and binding wheels are more often than not caused by the handbrake and adjuster levers inside the drum. You need to get the drum off and check that they are pivoting correctly and not seized up.

You may not need to go buying handbrake cables etc when it is such a simple fix as to dismantle the shoes, free off and lubricate these pivots and put it all back together.
Finally managed to get a bit of free time and half decent weather so just taken off the drum - can't really see what I'm looking for but the cylinders aren't leaking at all and the shoes look in good order and springs are OK as well.

The drum was stuck on pretty tight and the pads were both still pressed out even though the car was in neutral and handbrake off. The handbrake cable is tighter when it is on but still not massively tight?

What else should I check as recently the handbrake light has started to flash on and off randomly whenever I press the brake pedal now....

Cheers
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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by Andrew 2.8i »

D366Y wrote:What else should I check as recently the handbrake light has started to flash on and off randomly whenever I press the brake pedal now....
Is the fluid level OK?

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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by Peter-S »

For the light problem try cleaning the metal parts inside the brake fluid reservoir lid. The system works off spring pressure but if there is any crud in there it can mess up the circuit with a bad contact.
For the rear shoes can you pop up a picture, possibly they are the wrong way round.
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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by Paul G »

The prblem will be that the pivots on the handbrake/adjuster lever in the drum have seized up. In the picture below it is called the adjustment arm.

Image

You will have to completely remove the shoes and disconnect the cable from where it attaches to this lever at the back of the drum. The lever and adjuster mechanism is a complete pain to completely remove from the car with the cylinder still in place but you can free up the pivot point with large pliers usually. Just keep working it backward and forwards with the use of some WD40 until it it turning as much as you can get it to quite freely.

After this move onto the adjuster, again moving it backwards and forward throughout its range until it is moving completely freely. When this is done spatingly brush a bit of copperslip between the moving parts but be quite sparing and don't get any on the ratchet ring or the corresponding face of the adjuster.

Before refitting the shoes thoroughly clean the backing plate then brush a sparing bit of copperslip on the shoe lands. These are raised flat areas the the shoes rest on when fitted and the copperslip reduces squeeling.

Hope this helps Danny, it's a difficult procedure to explain, and a difficult one for a novice to do. Get back to me if you need any more help.

Paul.
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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by D366Y »

Thanks for the responses guys, after I posted I went back out and realised the adjustment arm wasn't moving when it should be so I took off the shoes, WD40'd the offending join between two parts that are meant to move to engage the handbrake, and also the small and very tight spring was ridonkulously tight, WD40'd that as well and now all moving freely, think the cable needs adjusting though as it still seems very slack on the back - I'm guessing that to adjust it I have to move the small nut n the cable next to the diff where it comes down from the actual handbrake itself? Or is the adjuster under the centre console? (Please say it's not!)

Thanks for the tips on the fluid level and the metal parts in the lid, I'll get back out there now and try to figure it out!

Cheers
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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by Paul G »

On late ones like yours its a big plastic nut that sits over the cable and is located underneath at the end of the transmission tunnel.

http://www.fordcaprilaser.co.uk/page106.html

Make sure you have freed off both wheels regarding the seized pivots and then pumped the brakes several times to operate the automatic adjuster before touching the cable tightness. The cable to the right wheel is a bit floppy (mine is and rests on the spring) but would be helped if the bush in the centre of the diff cover was replaced. Use a polybush one from Martin, (mine was about £7) and I'm sure when I get round to fixing it it will cure the problem.
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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by D366Y »

Paul G wrote:On late ones like yours its a big plastic nut that sits over the cable and is located underneath at the end of the transmission tunnel.

http://www.fordcaprilaser.co.uk/page106.html

Make sure you have freed off both wheels regarding the seized pivots and then pumped the brakes several times to operate the automatic adjuster before touching the cable tightness. The cable to the right wheel is a bit floppy (mine is and rests on the spring) but would be helped if the bush in the centre of the diff cover was replaced. Use a polybush one from Martin, (mine was about £7) and I'm sure when I get round to fixing it it will cure the problem.
Thanks Paul, that is what mine looks like (I think) so will adjust it accordingly.
Only problem now is that the chuffing drum won't it back on over the shoes! :banghead: I knew it was tight coming off but I thought that freeing it up would help put it back on properly, clearly I was wrong or there is something else that is also wrong :? :cry:
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Re: Drum brake cylinders and handbrake cable

Post by Paul G »

You need to release the adjuster and push the shoes inwards. Using a small screwdriver put it between the adjuster and the round post on the lever and just twist the screwdriver a bit and the adjuster should release and pull the shoes inwards - if not twist the adjuster screw with one hand and push the shoes inwards with the other.

When this is done make sure the shoes look like they are central in the backing plate - if they are cocked to one side that can make drum refitting difficult.

Oh this all brings back memories for me - I remember the first time I changed rear brake shoes on my own as a 16 year old. I was on it all day and in the end I lost my rag and put a lamp hammer through the rear light in rage! I don't suggest you follow my example however!

Paul.
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