Beaksters 2.8i Resto + 24V
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good on ya Beak
i had to do mine in those two places aswel, and i did the same as you, thick steal to replace both at once....
come on get the rest done!!
"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
"Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car.
"Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence.
"Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.
come on get the rest done!!
"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
"Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car.
"Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence.
"Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.
- Beakster
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- Car(s): 1983 Ford Capri 2.9 24V Cosworth Injection
- Location: Toronto, Canada
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Gathering momentum
Making a bit more progress with the welding. Here's some pics:
Someone has repaired the front valance before with this plate. For some reason they welded it over the top of the rust, then put a single screw through it and covered it in filler!
As you can see, the bits the wings screw on to are gone, so that bit will have to come off.....
...and get replaced by this:
I located the new end bit by putting screwdrivers through the holes then drew a line along the edge so I knew where to cut the old one off:
Chop chop chop
Hopefully get that welded on and tidied up by the end of the week, then need to do the other side.
Plan is to get it on the road in time for Classic Ford show, so I can beat Capri Andy up the strip
Someone has repaired the front valance before with this plate. For some reason they welded it over the top of the rust, then put a single screw through it and covered it in filler!
As you can see, the bits the wings screw on to are gone, so that bit will have to come off.....
...and get replaced by this:
I located the new end bit by putting screwdrivers through the holes then drew a line along the edge so I knew where to cut the old one off:
Chop chop chop
Hopefully get that welded on and tidied up by the end of the week, then need to do the other side.
Plan is to get it on the road in time for Classic Ford show, so I can beat Capri Andy up the strip
- the1theycallthe1
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good stuff
cant beat a bit of bodge finding and sorting :)
classic ford, whens that? il try and get the 'maro there to beat you both if its not too soon!
classic ford, whens that? il try and get the 'maro there to beat you both if its not too soon!
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nice work
brings back lots memories! i ended up replacing my valance with a new one, but that was before they cost sill money!
keep at it!
"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
"Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car.
"Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence.
"Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.
keep at it!
"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
"Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car.
"Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence.
"Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.
- Capri_Andy
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Re: good stuff
You wont beat either of us with a rover lump in your chevy rob! But youd need a rover v8 to get the car light enough. hehehe
Come on beaks we cant let the side down now.
Come on beaks we cant let the side down now.
The big fast red one!
- Beakster
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Re: Hows that 2.8 front end of yours coming along beakster??
Hi Olly,
I've found someone selling a Fibreglass front valance for a reasonable price. I'm just waiting on him sending me some pictures so I can decided if its what I'm after. If so I'll chop the crappy metal one off and replace with fibreglass. If not I'll get back to fixing my metal one.
In the mean time I've been repairing my strut tops. Cutting off the old bodges and rust underneath them. I've just been to Berkshire Metals to get 2 square metres and 18 gauge steel so will be getting on with that tonight. I'll post up some pics this evening.
-Chris
I've found someone selling a Fibreglass front valance for a reasonable price. I'm just waiting on him sending me some pictures so I can decided if its what I'm after. If so I'll chop the crappy metal one off and replace with fibreglass. If not I'll get back to fixing my metal one.
In the mean time I've been repairing my strut tops. Cutting off the old bodges and rust underneath them. I've just been to Berkshire Metals to get 2 square metres and 18 gauge steel so will be getting on with that tonight. I'll post up some pics this evening.
-Chris
- Beakster
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Strut top update
Yo,
Here's some pics of how I'm getting on with my strut tops:
Started off with a horrible bodged repair last owner did
The strengthening triangle plate is a mess and has completely come away from the inner wing on one side
Chopped off
All rusty pics chopped out and wire brushed up. What I'm left with needs 2 separate repair sections. 1 for the strut top, and 1 for the curvy bit of the strut tower.
This is a strut top repair plate. Its no use in its current form to me thought as I'm replacing the strut top and not just plating it. This means that both curved bits are in the wrong place relative to the hole the strut goes through. So the curvy bits are getting chopped off to make a simple flat plate the right shape for whats left of my inner wing.
After a bit of chopping filing and grinding I got it sitting flush.
Next for the curved bit of the strut tower. Did the usual card board template and cut it out of 18 gauge steel. Next I put it in my new metal folder to make the lip on it.
Chop chop bend bend
All measured up and fitting snug
Now that the repair sections are made I gave the whole area a good coating of Ferrozinc to kill any traces of rust that the wire wheel missed.
I'm leaving that to dry and neutralise the rust over night, then tomorrow I'll give it all a coat of weld through primer. After that I'll drill holes in my repair sections to match the original spot welds. Then I can plug weld through the holes as well as seam weld along the edges, then after grinding off the welds it will be good as new.
Here's some pics of how I'm getting on with my strut tops:
Started off with a horrible bodged repair last owner did
The strengthening triangle plate is a mess and has completely come away from the inner wing on one side
Chopped off
All rusty pics chopped out and wire brushed up. What I'm left with needs 2 separate repair sections. 1 for the strut top, and 1 for the curvy bit of the strut tower.
This is a strut top repair plate. Its no use in its current form to me thought as I'm replacing the strut top and not just plating it. This means that both curved bits are in the wrong place relative to the hole the strut goes through. So the curvy bits are getting chopped off to make a simple flat plate the right shape for whats left of my inner wing.
After a bit of chopping filing and grinding I got it sitting flush.
Next for the curved bit of the strut tower. Did the usual card board template and cut it out of 18 gauge steel. Next I put it in my new metal folder to make the lip on it.
Chop chop bend bend
All measured up and fitting snug
Now that the repair sections are made I gave the whole area a good coating of Ferrozinc to kill any traces of rust that the wire wheel missed.
I'm leaving that to dry and neutralise the rust over night, then tomorrow I'll give it all a coat of weld through primer. After that I'll drill holes in my repair sections to match the original spot welds. Then I can plug weld through the holes as well as seam weld along the edges, then after grinding off the welds it will be good as new.
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- Posts: 1983
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- Location: Hampshire
bloody hell
Thats one hell of a job you got on there Chris, I know I would of scraped it with 1/2 the amount of work you got there, so it is a credit to you matey for keeping another capri on the road.
Mickey c
Mickey c
- Peter-S
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1983 Capri 2.8i - Location: Kent
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Re: bloody hell
Gotta admire your determination, keep at it mate.
I guess that bit on your signature strip that says 2.8 'soon' to be 2.9 was a bit optimistic though!
I guess that bit on your signature strip that says 2.8 'soon' to be 2.9 was a bit optimistic though!
- Beakster
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Re: bloody hell
Haha, yeah it was just a tad. I was originally hoping to have it all done by April last year. Then I started poking at the rust bits and didn't have enough of a car left to put the 2.9 in.
New target date is 1st of June, in time for Classic Ford Show
New target date is 1st of June, in time for Classic Ford Show
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- Car(s): 1984 B Reg 2.8i rebored to 2922cc near concours condition. Restored from near scrap condition.
1983 A Reg 2.8i Caspian Blue over Silver. Ongoing now roadworthy project from scrap condition - Location: England
thats an excellent job mate
Those fanned out edge bits on the curved section you made, are you planning on filling with weld to strengthen them? I helped make somthing similar on the railway where I volunteer. Gob weld between each and grind it all down flush.
Excellent job mate, makes me feel lore like doing my own work myself soon after my parents move. Keep at it and keep posting the pics, an excellent source of reference.
Olly w
Excellent job mate, makes me feel lore like doing my own work myself soon after my parents move. Keep at it and keep posting the pics, an excellent source of reference.
Olly w
- Beakster
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Some more progress this evening...
I drilled holes in my repair sections with an 8mm bit so I can plug weld them on. Then I cleaned them up nice and shiny so I could coat them in weld thru primer.
I thought Ferrozinc (my rust converter of choice) would be weld thru as its got Zinc in it, but my initial experiments weren't very successful so I sanded it off on the positions where my plug welds would go.
I've never done plug welds before so I thought I better have a practice.
According to the holy grail of welding http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/plug-weld.htm I've got it spot on (spot on, spot welds, get it? I dont get it)
While I was at it I also thought I'd practice my seam welds because if I don't get enough penetration on the structural bits I might die.
I'm happy with that, so I got started on the car.
Thats all the plug welds done and the edges tacked in place. The plug welds seemed to be just poking through the back and making lots of smoke on the crusty old underseal so I think penetration is satisfactory. Also there are more plug welds than there were original spot welds so it should be nice and strong.
That was all for tonight as it was about 11pm. Tomorrow I'll weld up the fanned out bits, weld the seams then tidy up the welds a bit with the angle grinder. Not sure if I'll grind them completely flush as no one really sees this area and its a car to be driven, not a show car, plus I guess the seems add a bit of strength, but I'll see how I go tomorrow.
Cheers
-Chris
I thought Ferrozinc (my rust converter of choice) would be weld thru as its got Zinc in it, but my initial experiments weren't very successful so I sanded it off on the positions where my plug welds would go.
I've never done plug welds before so I thought I better have a practice.
According to the holy grail of welding http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/plug-weld.htm I've got it spot on (spot on, spot welds, get it? I dont get it)
While I was at it I also thought I'd practice my seam welds because if I don't get enough penetration on the structural bits I might die.
I'm happy with that, so I got started on the car.
Thats all the plug welds done and the edges tacked in place. The plug welds seemed to be just poking through the back and making lots of smoke on the crusty old underseal so I think penetration is satisfactory. Also there are more plug welds than there were original spot welds so it should be nice and strong.
That was all for tonight as it was about 11pm. Tomorrow I'll weld up the fanned out bits, weld the seams then tidy up the welds a bit with the angle grinder. Not sure if I'll grind them completely flush as no one really sees this area and its a car to be driven, not a show car, plus I guess the seems add a bit of strength, but I'll see how I go tomorrow.
Cheers
-Chris
- Beakster
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Finished a little bit!
Finished a bit, but still loads to do:
So this is what I started with a few days ago
Welded and ground down a bit with a grinding disc
Sanded down with a angle grinding sanding disc then painted
I have to say I'm very pleased with the result. I was tempted to give it a skim of filler and sand it down to make it perfectly smooth, but that would just be ridiculous!
Before I put the top of the strut top inner wing bit on I'm going to fix this hole which will require 3 separate repair sections
Then I got the other side to do too! The fun never ends!!!
So this is what I started with a few days ago
Welded and ground down a bit with a grinding disc
Sanded down with a angle grinding sanding disc then painted
I have to say I'm very pleased with the result. I was tempted to give it a skim of filler and sand it down to make it perfectly smooth, but that would just be ridiculous!
Before I put the top of the strut top inner wing bit on I'm going to fix this hole which will require 3 separate repair sections
Then I got the other side to do too! The fun never ends!!!
- nigecapri
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Flanges
Chris, that flange around the top (nearest your red luggmuffs in the photos) is where it all starts as you've probably sussed out. The spray from the back of the tyres get right up in there and starts it rusting from the day it left the factory way back when. Water sits in that groove and finds it's way through where the paint doesn't reach. When I did mine I gobbed it with waxoyl using a small brush first then did a second coat using the pressure spray barrel - the trigger sprayers are $hyte.
You're doing a grand job and you'll get even more satisfaction when you drive it.
You're doing a grand job and you'll get even more satisfaction when you drive it.
- Beakster
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Re: Flanges
Hi Nige,
Yeah, I had thought that about water getting in at the top of the flange. The plan is to put seam sealer all the way along it, then paint it with stone chip paint. Once its all done I'll use the Waxoyl extension probe to get a load of waxoyl in there. I'll probably take your advice and whack a thick layer of waxoyl underseal on too before top of inner wing goes on.
After all this effort I don't want to have to do it again in a couple of years so there's gonna be plenty of waxoyl underseal going everywhere!
Only problem is I haven't found anywhere in Reading selling seam sealer yet. I asked at halfords and the guy didn't know what it was, so I might have to order some online.
Cheers
-Chris
Yeah, I had thought that about water getting in at the top of the flange. The plan is to put seam sealer all the way along it, then paint it with stone chip paint. Once its all done I'll use the Waxoyl extension probe to get a load of waxoyl in there. I'll probably take your advice and whack a thick layer of waxoyl underseal on too before top of inner wing goes on.
After all this effort I don't want to have to do it again in a couple of years so there's gonna be plenty of waxoyl underseal going everywhere!
Only problem is I haven't found anywhere in Reading selling seam sealer yet. I asked at halfords and the guy didn't know what it was, so I might have to order some online.
Cheers
-Chris
- Beakster
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Started on that corner bit...
This bit is a pain. Its where the panel down the side, meets the inner wing, meets the bulk head, meets the curvy panel your feet go at. Took me most of the time to figure out how its supposed to go together.
Any one know what this stuff is? Its like sealer. I've been chiseling it off though
Nasty bits chopped out
Template
Repair section fabricated and welded in
I can't get in at the welds with the grinder to tidy up so they will just have to stay blobby. I'll probably give them a smear of seam sealer too.
The lip at the top sits on top of the inner wing. So when the inner wing is repaired I'll hammer them down onto it and plug weld through the holes.
Any one know what this stuff is? Its like sealer. I've been chiseling it off though
Nasty bits chopped out
Template
Repair section fabricated and welded in
I can't get in at the welds with the grinder to tidy up so they will just have to stay blobby. I'll probably give them a smear of seam sealer too.
The lip at the top sits on top of the inner wing. So when the inner wing is repaired I'll hammer them down onto it and plug weld through the holes.
- Beakster
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Top of inner wing over strut turret welded on
Got some seam sealer today...
tacked in place
nasty bulge bit
chop to fix then flattened down with a hammer
seam welded
one hour of solid grinding and a pair of numb hands and sore back later
still a few bits to tidy up with the grinder and a couple of bits to touch up with the MIG. It still has to get the 2.8 strengthening plate on top of it, but once thats done it will get a very light skim of filler just to pretty it up before paint.
tacked in place
nasty bulge bit
chop to fix then flattened down with a hammer
seam welded
one hour of solid grinding and a pair of numb hands and sore back later
still a few bits to tidy up with the grinder and a couple of bits to touch up with the MIG. It still has to get the 2.8 strengthening plate on top of it, but once thats done it will get a very light skim of filler just to pretty it up before paint.
- Beakster
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Crap progress tonight =(
Trying to recreate the curve where inner wing folds up to drip rail. Not going well though. I can make the curve on small bits of metal, but when I try and recreate it on large sheets I just end up making a mess.
Here's some pics of what I've been trying to do:
Creating the perfect bit bend:
The bit sitting on the metal is will replace proving its the curve I need:
One of my attempts at recreating the curve in a larger sheet of metal, but just making a mess:
Cheers
-Chris
Here's some pics of what I've been trying to do:
Creating the perfect bit bend:
The bit sitting on the metal is will replace proving its the curve I need:
One of my attempts at recreating the curve in a larger sheet of metal, but just making a mess:
Cheers
-Chris