Dansta's 2.8 special

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Dansta
Posts: 40
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2015 4:36 pm
Car(s): 1985 2.8i Special
Land Rover Discovery 5 (daily driver)
Location: Abingdon

Dansta's 2.8 special

Postby Dansta » Tue May 02, 2017 11:47 am

I have just embarked on a rolling restoration. The car itself was bare metal restored a few years ago but the paintwork is looking a bit tired and bubbly in places so I will probably get it resprayed in the future back to the Diamond white that it left the factory.

In the meantime there are a few jobs to do. Last year I sorted out the rear brakes as they were impregnated in diff oil courtesy of the wheel bearings being fitted the wrong way round. The front brakes needed some work so I have opted for the GTR280 kit. One of the capris I test drove had this fitted and seemed to work well.

This weekend I fitted the RHS kit. Much of the day was spent "tapping out" the front wheel bearing races, since I had bought modified hubs. I love how haynes described this process as tapping. Beating seven shades of shit on a screw driver to bang the bugger out better describes it. New races went in much easier. I did have a dime bar moment. I normally use the old race to help tap in the new race. Managed to get one of them stuck so had to tap back out slightly.........

Fitting the longer wheel studs was much simpler. I pulled them in with an old wheel nut spaced out by an old hub nut. Mounting the adapter plate was quite straightforward. I got through 2 drill bits drilling out the old caliper mounting threads on the struts so the adapter plate mounting stud could pass through. Using the spacers I was able to get the mondeo floating calliper bracket to sit squarely and evenly on the disk. Although the caliper fitted ok, the new pads seem to be a bit tight on the disk. Remains to be seen once the system is bled whether that remains an issue. Next weekend I'll do the other side and bleed the system. Not sure whether the brake pedal travel will be too much but I did notice the post about a Granny master cylinder fitting the 2.8 servo.

Once the brakes are sorted, it will be suspension next. Bushes look original and a bit cracked so I will polybush. I have a "this is your garage" near me in Culham that has a press suitable for pressing in/out bushes. So I will make use of their facilities. Also rear springs are sagging to off side so I will replace front and rear springs. Dampers, eye watering cost for the 2.8 but I am looking at the bilstein rebuild service as well as new.

After suspension is some engine work. My valve gaps keep,closing and i am pretty sure the heads aren't modified. So it'll likely be worn through tappet case hardening as it is all valves, rather than recession which would affect exhaust only I think..... I am hatching an engine swap plan at the moment rather than rebuild the 2.8. I am looking to home brew supercharge a 2.9. Sorry to all you keep it original types, but I prefer EFI to MFI, hence using the 2.9. If I can get the photo bucket to work I'll put some photos up.

Since I have had the car 2 years now, I am probably getting close to being the longest owner since there are 15 previous keepers on the V5 and it is a 1985 model. Ta.

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D366Y
Donator
Donator
Posts: 666
Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2012 2:26 pm
Car(s): 1986 Laser 1.6, runaround project
1981 GL Auto 2.0, Barn-Find-Resto
On the hunt for some capri shaped V6 power....
Location: South Bucks

Re: Dansta's 2.8 special

Postby D366Y » Tue May 02, 2017 8:55 pm

Sounds like you have done a lot of hard work so fair play for getting on with it! :cheers:

Would love to see some pictures if you have taken any/many, fair play for getting down to the nitty gritty and sounds like you have had some proper fights with it, particularly with those wheel bearings by the sound of it :lol:

Let us know how you get on and show us what you've done so far would be great

Cheers
Danny

Dansta
Posts: 40
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2015 4:36 pm
Car(s): 1985 2.8i Special
Land Rover Discovery 5 (daily driver)
Location: Abingdon

Re: Dansta's 2.8 special

Postby Dansta » Sat Jun 03, 2017 3:17 pm

Here are some Dansta Capri updates.

Firstly, I have changed from 13" Special alloys to 15" RS4 alloys. Personally I prefer the look of the RS4s and have that classic ford nod about them.
Before:
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... d.jpg.html]Image

After:
[URL=http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danielashford1/media/IMG_0020_zpspyrtfb5j.jpg.html]Image

Next up fitting the GTR280 kit:
Original 2.8 hubs
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... c.jpg.html]Image

Remove the existring front hub. I bought ready modified hubs from CapriSport so I didn't need to sort out hub modifications. Next up was to drill out the caliper mounting holes to 12mm. This took me 6 HSS drill bits to accomplish on both sides. Next fit the mounting bracket using spacer washers to fit in the right place.
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... j.jpg.html]Image

After this it is a straightforward task of refitting the hubs and fitting the new disk on the hub face. Longer wheel studs were needed to be fitted. The Mondeo sliding caliper carrier then fits onto the bracket with more spacers to centralise onto the disk and then the caliper itself can be fitted with the new pads.

Looks like I didn't take any more photos, sorry apart from the final through the spokes view.
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... c.jpg.html]Image

So far, the brakes are a big improvement. I was worried about increased pedal travel, but it does not seem to be an issue.

Next job. I'm fitting a turbo. I've managed to acquire a TT single turbo Barry Manifold and a T3 turbo (0.48/0.42 A/R) and some related gubbins. Although I got a modified metering head as part of the deal, I have decided to go EFI. First off, strip and refurbish the turbo. Never done this before, but how hard can it be (famous last words.....).

Here it is before I started dismantling it............
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... j.jpg.html]Image

First off, remove the bolts holding the compressor housing (snail end) to the Turbo. Mine is missing the 3 retaining clamps and bolts so was easy to remove.
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... f.jpg.html]Image
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... 1.jpg.html]Image

Next, remove the bolts from the turbine housing. 2 Bolts snapped off. Also note the snapped off water inlet (and outlet on the other side) snapped off. Hopefully I'll be able to drill and remove them later.
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... i.jpg.html]Image
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... u.jpg.html]Image
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... x.jpg.html]Image

Above you can see the load spreader plate incorporating a guide for the wastegate. The Turbine housing can be separated from the CHRA (Central Housing Rotating Assembly). Needed a bit of brute force and ignorance to separate these 2.
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... c.jpg.html]Image

Next, you need to remove the retaining nut from the end of the shaft. At the turbine end, a hex socket fitted nicely over the 3 lobed end. A ring spanner (double hex) fitted over the compressor nut.
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... j.jpg.html]Image
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... b.jpg.html]Image

The compressor can then be lifted off the end. Note, the turbo has ingested something it shouldn't have in the past. Damage to the underside of the inducer. New Compressor will be required.
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... u.jpg.html]Image
[url=http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danielashford1/media/IMG_0123_zpsg62hplwb.jpg.html]Image

4 bolts and the backplate can be removed.
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... x.jpg.html]Image

You can now see a close up of the 270° thrust bearing and the Dynamic oil seal.
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... s.jpg.html]Image

Once the shaft has been withdrawn, you need to remove 4 tiddly circlips from inside the housing. These retain the oil fed journal bearings. The circlips are too small for standard circlip pliers, so I borrowed some pointy tweezers. Replacement offering will be required............
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... f.jpg.html]Image

You can now see the internals of the CHRA.
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... q.jpg.html]Image

The journal bearings show some signs of scoring - previous use hadn't adhered to a more frequent oil change schedule or had some internal damage causing bits of engine to fly around. The journals on the shaft seem OK. Diameter seems OK too. Apart from some damage to the underside of the turbine, the shaft is in good nick. Interestingly, I think the Inducer diameter is 1mm smaller than a replacement. Signs of overheating and OD wear perhaps? The amount of crusted on carbon seems to suggest overheating in the past.

http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/danie ... i.jpg.html]Image

Next I will be buying the parts to rebuild over the next couple of weeks:
1. New bearings. I'll upgrade to the 360° thrust bearing.
2. New compressor wheel.
3. If I can remove the snapped off bolts and water cooling fittings, I won't need to buy a new bearing housing.
4. New bolts and turbine housing spreader plates
5. Jury's out whether to get a new turbine shaft or not.

Stay tuned........................................


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