Putting a Borg Warner T5 Behind a 2.9i
Putting a Borg Warner T5 Behind a 2.9i
I' just wanted to pass along how I put a Borg Warner T5 5 speed behind a Cologne 2.9i engine. I'm in the States and thus some of the items may be a bit rare in the UK. For that matter I suspect there are far better options for transmissions in the UK without having to resort to what I did. Here the Mustang 4 cyl T5's are very common and very inexpensive ($50 US with a bit of looking)
Here's the parts list:
Stock '74-'78 Mustang II 2.8 pressure plate
Stock Mustang II 2.8 clutch disk
Stock Mustang II 2.8 throwout bearing
Stock Mustang II 2.8 backing plate from '74-'78 manual tranny
Custom Brass Pilot bearing made from Motormite #14659
Cross shaft seal, Napa part #63122, for pivot shaft in the ...
Mustang II 2.8 bell housing; bore to 4.912"
T-5 transmission from 1987-1993 Mustang 2.3 with the 3.97:1 first gear
Stock Capri 2.8 flywheel bolts
Starter from a 2.8/2.9/4.0 Ranger/Bronco/Explorer
Team Blitz T5 trans crossmember
1987+ Mustang Speedocable (I chose to get one with the cruise control sender)
I can provide a PDF drawing of the pilot bush to interested parties
When using a Mustang II bell with a T5 converion, the ID of the bell must be opened up to 4.912". The starter needs to be changed to a Mustang II starter with remote solenoid. When used with a Capri flywheel the starter must be spaced 3/8" forward for the starter pinion to diengage from the ring gear. The shifter will come up almost an inch closer to the dash so be prepared to do some clearance work in the shifter hole. A new transmission crossmember is required. You can make one or buy one from Team Blitz. The driveshaft will need to be reworked. If you use a 85-93 Mustang V8 T5 then the input shaft is way too short and a special pilot bush in the flywheel will be required. The 2.3 4 cylinder T5's appear input shaft will end flush with the bell and are thus too short also.
I have mounted my 4 cyl T5 to the modified Mustang II bell. I can positively state the 4 cyl T5 input shaft is too short to reach the end of the crankshaft. I'll be turning a brass pilot bushing to go in the ID of the flywheel just like I did on my T9 conversion.
FYI, the 4 cyl T5 input shaft is 7.41 inches long. An early 85-93 Mustang V8 T5 has an input length of 7.18. A 94 up T5 from either a Mustang V8 or a Mustang 3.8 V6 should have an input shaft length of 7.85. The later should be long enough to properly engage with the flywheel.
BTW, the cover for the Bendix mechanism on the starter interfered with the motor mount when I spaced the starter out. I had to trim about 1/4" off the lower back corner of the motor mount to clear that.
I also clearanced a rib (5 lb hammer) in the tunnel for the shifter rail casting. This allowed me to tuck the transmission appreciably further up in the car to get better driveline alignment.
Shifter to transmission tunnel seal.....
I've found my solution though I'm not sure how repeatable this will be for others.
A 1985-86 Nissan 300Z Turbo T5 shifter seal plate is an almost perfect fit. Drill 4 holes and put some screws in and call it done.
The 300Z shifter boot will also fit OK around a Mustang shifter rod and will snap into a a MK3 full length console. It gaps a little at the bottom but I'm pretty confident a little contact cement will cure that.
In the US the T5's only came in 83-84 280ZX and 85-86 300Z TURBOCHARGED cars. I just happened to walk by one (the only one I've ever seen in a junkyard) today in my local Pull-it-yourself yard.
The T5 used in the Z's was not world class. It also has unique spline patterns on both the input and the output.
Don Haulsee
1976 ASC Capri II R/S 2.9i with Borg Warner T5 5 speed
1974 Capri MK1 2.8 4 speed factory AC
Here's the parts list:
Stock '74-'78 Mustang II 2.8 pressure plate
Stock Mustang II 2.8 clutch disk
Stock Mustang II 2.8 throwout bearing
Stock Mustang II 2.8 backing plate from '74-'78 manual tranny
Custom Brass Pilot bearing made from Motormite #14659
Cross shaft seal, Napa part #63122, for pivot shaft in the ...
Mustang II 2.8 bell housing; bore to 4.912"
T-5 transmission from 1987-1993 Mustang 2.3 with the 3.97:1 first gear
Stock Capri 2.8 flywheel bolts
Starter from a 2.8/2.9/4.0 Ranger/Bronco/Explorer
Team Blitz T5 trans crossmember
1987+ Mustang Speedocable (I chose to get one with the cruise control sender)
I can provide a PDF drawing of the pilot bush to interested parties
When using a Mustang II bell with a T5 converion, the ID of the bell must be opened up to 4.912". The starter needs to be changed to a Mustang II starter with remote solenoid. When used with a Capri flywheel the starter must be spaced 3/8" forward for the starter pinion to diengage from the ring gear. The shifter will come up almost an inch closer to the dash so be prepared to do some clearance work in the shifter hole. A new transmission crossmember is required. You can make one or buy one from Team Blitz. The driveshaft will need to be reworked. If you use a 85-93 Mustang V8 T5 then the input shaft is way too short and a special pilot bush in the flywheel will be required. The 2.3 4 cylinder T5's appear input shaft will end flush with the bell and are thus too short also.
I have mounted my 4 cyl T5 to the modified Mustang II bell. I can positively state the 4 cyl T5 input shaft is too short to reach the end of the crankshaft. I'll be turning a brass pilot bushing to go in the ID of the flywheel just like I did on my T9 conversion.
FYI, the 4 cyl T5 input shaft is 7.41 inches long. An early 85-93 Mustang V8 T5 has an input length of 7.18. A 94 up T5 from either a Mustang V8 or a Mustang 3.8 V6 should have an input shaft length of 7.85. The later should be long enough to properly engage with the flywheel.
BTW, the cover for the Bendix mechanism on the starter interfered with the motor mount when I spaced the starter out. I had to trim about 1/4" off the lower back corner of the motor mount to clear that.
I also clearanced a rib (5 lb hammer) in the tunnel for the shifter rail casting. This allowed me to tuck the transmission appreciably further up in the car to get better driveline alignment.
Shifter to transmission tunnel seal.....
I've found my solution though I'm not sure how repeatable this will be for others.
A 1985-86 Nissan 300Z Turbo T5 shifter seal plate is an almost perfect fit. Drill 4 holes and put some screws in and call it done.
The 300Z shifter boot will also fit OK around a Mustang shifter rod and will snap into a a MK3 full length console. It gaps a little at the bottom but I'm pretty confident a little contact cement will cure that.
In the US the T5's only came in 83-84 280ZX and 85-86 300Z TURBOCHARGED cars. I just happened to walk by one (the only one I've ever seen in a junkyard) today in my local Pull-it-yourself yard.
The T5 used in the Z's was not world class. It also has unique spline patterns on both the input and the output.
Don Haulsee
1976 ASC Capri II R/S 2.9i with Borg Warner T5 5 speed
1974 Capri MK1 2.8 4 speed factory AC
Well done mate!
Having read that you have obviously put a lot of work and research time into your car work.
It's great to know that there are guys like you across the pond keeping the US capri's alive too.
Keep up the good work!
It's great to know that there are guys like you across the pond keeping the US capri's alive too.
Keep up the good work!
Putting a T5 behind a 2.9i
Were you able to use the original Capri flywheel bolts when installing the T5 transmission? I'm currently bolting-up a 1990 T5 out of a Mustang GT behind a 2.8 V6 from a 1974 Capri and found, like you did, that the input shaft was short. Other than that, we seem to be using the same parts (Mustang II bellhousing, etc.). I've had the flywheel machined and have installed the pilot bearing inside the flywheel to make-up for the shorter input shaft on the T5. The heads on the flywheel bolts are too large and now interfere with the pilot bearing in the flywheel. It's very expensive to have new bolts machined. Did you run into any problems with your flywheel bolts? Perhaps you approached the pilot bearing challenge differently - do you have additional info on how you did that? Any additional info would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Todd
Use Allen Heads
You could use Allen head (socket hex head) bolts. They need to be 10mm x1.0 pitch. They aren't easy to find but I found them somewhere as I have four in my desk drawer.
I'll try to find out where they came from here in the States.
I presume you are in the States?
Don
I'll try to find out where they came from here in the States.
I presume you are in the States?
Don
Re: Use Allen Heads
That sounds like a good alternative - if you remember where you purchased them, please let me know. Thanks Don!
p.s. Yes - California to be exact.
p.s. Yes - California to be exact.
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Must agree
plenty of thougt gone into that.
Its also nice to see you guys coming on to this site. as you can advise on parts which arn'e available in the UK
Thanks
Its also nice to see you guys coming on to this site. as you can advise on parts which arn'e available in the UK
Thanks
its posts like this...
...which make ya wish we had an FAQ section on the board...great work mate.
Allen Head Bolt Source
Turns out I had a machine shop (460 Machine Co) I work with get the bolts.
Sandra at 460 says call Southern Fasteners at (804) 743-2840, (Joanne, Cindy, or Lisa can help).
Southern Fasteners are industrial bolt suppliers. You may have to buy the bolts in box quantities. If they won't sell to you let me know and I'll have Sandra at 460 order a box. We'll split the cost as I'm sure I'll need some more of them eventually.
BTW, I'm located in Virginia.
Don Haulsee
Sandra at 460 says call Southern Fasteners at (804) 743-2840, (Joanne, Cindy, or Lisa can help).
Southern Fasteners are industrial bolt suppliers. You may have to buy the bolts in box quantities. If they won't sell to you let me know and I'll have Sandra at 460 order a box. We'll split the cost as I'm sure I'll need some more of them eventually.
BTW, I'm located in Virginia.
Don Haulsee
T5 Installation
Sounds great Don! Thanks very much for the additional information - and the offer. I'll contact Southern Fasteners and see what they say. BTW - all of your detailed information has proven very helpful and is spot on with what we have found so far with our installation. We are hoping to get everything bolted up within the next week or two and things like the starter information you provided (the 3/8" spacing) will save quite a bit of head scratching.
Our project is quite a blending of global ingredients. We are in California, using a German Capri 2.8 V6, mating it with a T5 transmission out of a domestically grown Mustang GT and installing it in a British Jensen Healey that was exported and originally sold in Belgium, then later imported to the States. It's amazing how well, with minor mods, this is all coming together.
The transmission we are using (purchased used with 40k miles since rebuild) had a Hurst Competition Plus shifter which has a nice tight feel to it. We also just ordered an Extreme Adjustable Shifter Handle from Unlimited Performance Racing Products (www.uprproducts.com) as we wanted the flexibility that the Extreme shifter handle provides. I'm also anxious to check out the shifter seal you mention to see if that may work in this installation.
Thanks again for taking the time to share your experience and post your information - and enjoy that awesome Virginia springtime!
- Todd
Our project is quite a blending of global ingredients. We are in California, using a German Capri 2.8 V6, mating it with a T5 transmission out of a domestically grown Mustang GT and installing it in a British Jensen Healey that was exported and originally sold in Belgium, then later imported to the States. It's amazing how well, with minor mods, this is all coming together.
The transmission we are using (purchased used with 40k miles since rebuild) had a Hurst Competition Plus shifter which has a nice tight feel to it. We also just ordered an Extreme Adjustable Shifter Handle from Unlimited Performance Racing Products (www.uprproducts.com) as we wanted the flexibility that the Extreme shifter handle provides. I'm also anxious to check out the shifter seal you mention to see if that may work in this installation.
Thanks again for taking the time to share your experience and post your information - and enjoy that awesome Virginia springtime!
- Todd
Re: T5 Installation
Todd, how did you make out with your T5 setup. I have a 1984 UK Capri 2.8i that I want to swap a T5 into it. Any reccomendations on which T5 to use..due to different gear rations, pilot bearing size, and the 3 different lengths of input shaft?? Mike
Re: Putting a Borg Warner T5 Behind a 2.9i
“I can provide a PDF drawing of the pilot bush to interested parties”
Hi Don Haulsee,
Any chance you might still have the PDF with dimensions for the spacer on this. Thanks
Hi Don Haulsee,
Any chance you might still have the PDF with dimensions for the spacer on this. Thanks
- Peter-S
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Re: Putting a Borg Warner T5 Behind a 2.9i
You have probably spotted that the original post was 13 years ago. Unfortunately the original poster is not a forum member these days so unlikely he will reply but maybe someone else can helpJumbug13 wrote:“I can provide a PDF drawing of the pilot bush to interested parties”
Hi Don Haulsee,
Any chance you might still have the PDF with dimensions for the spacer on this. Thanks
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Re: Use Allen Heads
Remember to use extra high tensile bolts in flywheel "12.9 strengthen" or use ARP flywheel bolts from burton power.MercuryCapri2.9i wrote:You could use Allen head (socket hex head) bolts. They need to be 10mm x1.0 pitch. They aren't easy to find but I found them somewhere as I have four in my desk drawer.
I'll try to find out where they came from here in the States.
I presume you are in the States?
Don
Don't use stock 2.9I flywheels IT IS WAY too heavy. Standard 2.8 flywheel weights about 9.5kg and 2.9 fly wheel is about 15mm thicker and
weights about 13kg... I am using billet flywheel that weights 6.4kg without starter wheel.
Re: Putting a Borg Warner T5 Behind a 2.9i
Hi all. New member here but a long time Capri owner in the US.
I'm posting here since I too am in the process of installing a T5 trans into a 1974 V6 Capri!
It's a friends car that's been off the road for near 30 years!
The body is solid but the mechanicals needs all to be rebuilt.
Here's a link to photos showing some of the work:
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/20254955092
The second is my website showing more photos of the work plus some of my other cars that I've owned.
https://vwpartsforsale.shutterfly.com/# ... 20Pictures
I am using some of the info posted earlier by Don Haulsee to accomplish this swap.
Funny thing, I actually sold a Capri II to Don back in 2006 that I had installed a Turbo 2.3L engine and a T5 trans.
Doing that swap was easy as the 2.3L was stock in the US version of the Capri II and the T5 was used as the standard trans in tens of thousands of Ford cars here in the US.
One thing that's different today is the to use of the T5 that Ford installed in the 1996-2001 Mustang with the 3.8L V6. It comes with a longer input shaft that allows you to not have to make any mods to support the front of the shaft as it will reach the flywheel. You only need to have a bronze bushing installed in the end of the crank that sticks out flush with the flywheel.
This trans is easy to find and not to expensive used $300-$500 US. You can use the earlier V8 T5 as well. You just need to swap the input shaft for the longer one used in the later V6 version. That's available new for about $60-$80 US. I have a V8 T5 that I plan on rebuilding when I receive my new input shaft.
I have rebuilt over a half dozen of these trans over the years. Having owned 3 Mustangs that used this trans and some friends who also had cars with this trans it just became necessary to learn how.
I'm posting here since I too am in the process of installing a T5 trans into a 1974 V6 Capri!
It's a friends car that's been off the road for near 30 years!
The body is solid but the mechanicals needs all to be rebuilt.
Here's a link to photos showing some of the work:
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/20254955092
The second is my website showing more photos of the work plus some of my other cars that I've owned.
https://vwpartsforsale.shutterfly.com/# ... 20Pictures
I am using some of the info posted earlier by Don Haulsee to accomplish this swap.
Funny thing, I actually sold a Capri II to Don back in 2006 that I had installed a Turbo 2.3L engine and a T5 trans.
Doing that swap was easy as the 2.3L was stock in the US version of the Capri II and the T5 was used as the standard trans in tens of thousands of Ford cars here in the US.
One thing that's different today is the to use of the T5 that Ford installed in the 1996-2001 Mustang with the 3.8L V6. It comes with a longer input shaft that allows you to not have to make any mods to support the front of the shaft as it will reach the flywheel. You only need to have a bronze bushing installed in the end of the crank that sticks out flush with the flywheel.
This trans is easy to find and not to expensive used $300-$500 US. You can use the earlier V8 T5 as well. You just need to swap the input shaft for the longer one used in the later V6 version. That's available new for about $60-$80 US. I have a V8 T5 that I plan on rebuilding when I receive my new input shaft.
I have rebuilt over a half dozen of these trans over the years. Having owned 3 Mustangs that used this trans and some friends who also had cars with this trans it just became necessary to learn how.
Re: Putting a Borg Warner T5 Behind a 2.9i
I put a T5 behind a 4-cyl Cosworth the other day.. it wasnt connected up, or in a vehicle, I was helping my mate out moving things around in his workshop.
I'm the one who leaves all those shoes in the carriageway.