Oily Sparks

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stevemarl
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by stevemarl »

Andrew 2.8i wrote: Fri Mar 27, 2020 1:11 pm You can leave out the beasts, b
Nah, you can leave `em in for me, I`m always curious.
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Bug
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by Bug »

stevemarl wrote: Fri Mar 27, 2020 2:23 pm
Andrew 2.8i wrote: Fri Mar 27, 2020 1:11 pm You can leave out the beasts, b
Nah, you can leave `em in for me, I`m always curious.

So, as the topic seems to have wandered (even though I think my suggestion is valid) I have a question to ask:

Should I try flagellation, necrophilia and bestiality, or am i just flogging a dead horse :D
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by D366Y »

Bug wrote: Fri Mar 27, 2020 11:41 am
D366Y wrote: Thu Mar 26, 2020 1:00 pm I would have thought I would have seen it as well but I will bow to Truck and Tom's superior knowledge!

The spring clip thing that holds the follower on was still there, but when I set the valve clearances it seemed quite loose so not sure if the spring/clip whatever is just a bit loose/old and needs replacing?

Cheers
Had exactly the same issue, albeit about 25 years ago. :?

The hardened surface of the cam follower had worn due to the spray bar being blocked. They seem to be made softer than the cam, probably to save that from excessive wear. On mine, it was concave instead of the convex curve it should have been.
So I would be getting that cover off and checking every single follower for wear.
The fact it is near the far end of the spray bar suggests the bar is filling up with crud and the holes are blocking from the ends first, given that the oil enters the bar in the middle.
If you are not already changing the spray bar at regular intervals then start doing that now.
If you are already changing the spray bar then you need to start asking yourself where the crud has come from to block it.

One final point, block all the oil drain holes in the head before you undo the spray bar bolts. They fit perfectly down the holes if you drop them. Ask me how I know!!!
Thanks Bug, that's great and very helpful - will get a spray bar too then!
Andrew 2.8i wrote: Fri Mar 27, 2020 1:11 pm Hi Mr Sparks
Welcome to the forum. :lol:
Olly Sparks wrote: Fri Mar 27, 2020 11:41 am Being an accomplished cad and pervert, many situations involving fornication and alcohol and beasts.
You can leave out the beasts, but debauched tales of fornication, alcohol and breasts would be most welcome.

Andrew.
Welcome Olly and thanks for making my day :lol: though I must agree with Andrew- breasts not beasts for me please :D
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by Bug »

D366Y wrote: Fri Mar 27, 2020 4:08 pm
Bug wrote: Fri Mar 27, 2020 11:41 am
D366Y wrote: Thu Mar 26, 2020 1:00 pm I would have thought I would have seen it as well but I will bow to Truck and Tom's superior knowledge!

The spring clip thing that holds the follower on was still there, but when I set the valve clearances it seemed quite loose so not sure if the spring/clip whatever is just a bit loose/old and needs replacing?

Cheers
Had exactly the same issue, albeit about 25 years ago. :?

The hardened surface of the cam follower had worn due to the spray bar being blocked. They seem to be made softer than the cam, probably to save that from excessive wear. On mine, it was concave instead of the convex curve it should have been.
So I would be getting that cover off and checking every single follower for wear.
The fact it is near the far end of the spray bar suggests the bar is filling up with crud and the holes are blocking from the ends first, given that the oil enters the bar in the middle.
If you are not already changing the spray bar at regular intervals then start doing that now.
If you are already changing the spray bar then you need to start asking yourself where the crud has come from to block it.

One final point, block all the oil drain holes in the head before you undo the spray bar bolts. They fit perfectly down the holes if you drop them. Ask me how I know!!!
Thanks Bug, that's great and very helpful - will get a spray bar too then!
Andrew 2.8i wrote: Fri Mar 27, 2020 1:11 pm Hi Mr Sparks
Welcome to the forum. :lol:
Olly Sparks wrote: Fri Mar 27, 2020 11:41 am Being an accomplished cad and pervert, many situations involving fornication and alcohol and beasts.
You can leave out the beasts, but debauched tales of fornication, alcohol and breasts would be most welcome.

Andrew.
Welcome Olly and thanks for making my day :lol: though I must agree with Andrew- breasts not beasts for me please :D
Somehow, in amongst all my ramblings, I forgot to point out that the only cure is a new set of followers!
Before you do that, check the state of the cam lobes.
Same principle as using old pads on new discs, don't do it.
If the cam has wear it will very soon knacker your new followers, so in that case you'd be looking at a complete new cam kit. So head off to do that, new head gasket, quick clean up of the valves etc.
Soon mounts up doesn't it?
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by Bug »

Oh, and new head bolts if they're the stretch type
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by Olly Sparks »

You can run a pinto without a head on it, my brother in law did it on his 3.1 injection.
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by D366Y »

Bug wrote: Fri Mar 27, 2020 6:05 pm Somehow, in amongst all my ramblings, I forgot to point out that the only cure is a new set of followers!
Before you do that, check the state of the cam lobes.
Same principle as using old pads on new discs, don't do it.
If the cam has wear it will very soon knacker your new followers, so in that case you'd be looking at a complete new cam kit. So head off to do that, new head gasket, quick clean up of the valves etc.
Soon mounts up doesn't it?
It does rather!!
The cam is only 2/3years old so I'm hoping that's still usable and isn't too bad...
Will add followers to the shopping list as well!

Cheers
Danny
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by D366Y »

Olly Sparks wrote: Fri Mar 27, 2020 6:59 pm You can run a pinto without a head on it, my brother in law did it on his 3.1 injection.
I've heard that it was a custom order and came from the factory like that - only one
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by stevemarl »

D366Y wrote: Mon Mar 30, 2020 10:00 am The cam is only 2/3years old so I'm hoping that's still usable and isn't too bad...
The problem is that the cam and followers `bed-in` to each other, microscopic irregularities will become mirrored in both surfaces so they wear evenly. Hence the followers should always be put back in their original positions after overhaul. If you replace one part, the other then has to bed in again, which accelerates wear (they`re only case hardened AFAIK?) . It may well be fine, but it is recommended to replace cam & followers together.
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by Bug »

D366Y wrote: Mon Mar 30, 2020 10:00 am
Bug wrote: Fri Mar 27, 2020 6:05 pm Somehow, in amongst all my ramblings, I forgot to point out that the only cure is a new set of followers!
Before you do that, check the state of the cam lobes.
Same principle as using old pads on new discs, don't do it.
If the cam has wear it will very soon knacker your new followers, so in that case you'd be looking at a complete new cam kit. So head off to do that, new head gasket, quick clean up of the valves etc.
Soon mounts up doesn't it?
It does rather!!
The cam is only 2/3years old so I'm hoping that's still usable and isn't too bad...
Will add followers to the shopping list as well!

Cheers
Danny
Really? Was the cam part of a kit, including all new followers? If so, it seems strange for that to happen. So I may be wrong and your issue was something entirely different.
However, if the cam was replaced on the original followers then that may well have created the issue.
Or was it a high lift 'sporty' cam that was put in? That could well apply extra force to the followers and wear them more quickly perhaps?

Back in the day, I was able to take my pick of decent sets of followers from dozens of old Capris and Cortinas in the scrap yard, so I got handfuls and used the best ones I could. They lasted another couple of years with me and were still running well when I sold the car on.
However, I doubt you could do that now?
If it were me I'd be tempted to see if I could locate a decent set of followers and take a chance, but also start putting some pennies aside for a complete cam kit in the future.
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by D366Y »

Sorry for the late reply - I thought I had! (obviously this permanent state of drunkeness due to this isolation is taking it's toll!)

Yes the cam was replaced along with all new followers at the same time. It's not a sporty high lift or anything, just a 2.0 cam in a 1.6

Just placed by order with Burtons for 8 new followers and the springs as well - £59 which isn't too bad, certainly less than a new cam!

Will see what happens when that gets here I guess! Rocker cover gasket arrived today from CCI as well so think I have everything I need - apart from a shiny new rocker cover that is!

Cheers
Danny
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by Bug »

Sober up enough to get it sorted then. :xd:

Let us know how you get on.
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by tejb1 »

I'm late to what seems to be a pretty rawkus party... but yes had exactly this when my rocker cover became incontinent. In my case the cover itself was rather uneven, so I spent a lot of time trial and error fitting and tapping it to be something near straight... then a fresh gasket and it was fine.
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by D366Y »

I make no promises to doing the work sober :lol:

And thanks Tom that's helpful, I'll give it a gander - might just get one from Nick's supplier anyways??
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by tejb1 »

Absolutely, if you're getting a new one, even better!

There's also a couple of people who supply the fixings c/w the correct spreader plates, I bought a new set at the same time to fit instead of the motley assortment of washers that was in place before. And of course they don't need to be too tight.
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by pbar »

I'm sure you already know Danny, but the rocker cover bolts should be tightened as per the sequence specified in the Haynes. I always torque mine gradually too, as opposed to fully torquing each bolt straight away, to avoid distortion. Not sure if that's the right way to do it, but seems to make more sense (to me anyway!) and I've never had a new one leak doing it this way.
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by D366Y »

Thanks for the replies guys - I do have the correct spreader plates not a mess of washers so I should be OK - can save a bit of cash there I hope!

And thanks Paul, I know there is an order to it and I'm sure I followed it last time - when I tried to bodge it back together last time to check it had work I covered it in sealant as well in a hope to temporarily plug it but it seems that alas that has also failed.

I'll try your method next time though Paul if you've never had one leak before - good enough recommendation for me!

Thanks
Danny
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by Paul G »

pbar wrote: Wed Apr 01, 2020 2:10 pm I'm sure you already know Danny, but the rocker cover bolts should be tightened as per the sequence specified in the Haynes. I always torque mine gradually too, as opposed to fully torquing each bolt straight away, to avoid distortion. Not sure if that's the right way to do it, but seems to make more sense (to me anyway!) and I've never had a new one leak doing it this way.
That is the correct way Paul, if you fully tighten one corner then the opposite corner you could warp the rocker cover. Gentle stages is best.
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by pbar »

Paul G wrote: Thu Apr 02, 2020 9:44 am
pbar wrote: Wed Apr 01, 2020 2:10 pm I'm sure you already know Danny, but the rocker cover bolts should be tightened as per the sequence specified in the Haynes. I always torque mine gradually too, as opposed to fully torquing each bolt straight away, to avoid distortion. Not sure if that's the right way to do it, but seems to make more sense (to me anyway!) and I've never had a new one leak doing it this way.
That is the correct way Paul, if you fully tighten one corner then the opposite corner you could warp the rocker cover. Gentle stages is best.
Magic, thank you Paul.
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Re: Oily Sparks

Post by Mc Tool »

With cork gaskets I glue the gasket to the cam cover (or sump ) with 3 bond (or f2) and fit cover to engine untill glue dries , then remove and apply your fave sealant to the engine side of the gasket (sometimes a smear of grease is all thats needed ) and refit the cover/gasket assy. The idea is that the gasket being well stuck to the cover will stay there without and real pressure needed to keep it there and thusly always come off with the cover.....undamaged . this way all you need to seal is (smooth flat ) gasket to the smooth flat engine mounting surface, bolt dont need to be tight ( accidently get a bit of sealant on the threads as a mild threadlock ), and you get to use the gasket several times.
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