The Ford Capri Laser Page

Starting to cut out when hot. After the engine is hot when I slow down and come to a stop the idle drops and then cuts out.starts straight back up can drive for a hundred yards stop and then cuts out again.it will keep doing this until it cools of.i have not adjusted anything.
Help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Allan

Check the 'free' things first - are all the electrical connections on the battery and coil properly secure, including the earth connection to the engine block.
What colour are the plugs when it stalls - if they are very sooty it will be over fuelling.
If these checks are OK I would try a replacement coil.

Has it got points & condenser or points replacement ?

When I first got mine it had a lumenition system fitted back in the 90's, found that when it got warm it died & got progressively worse at restarting. Stripped it out & put points replacement system in

Lord Flasheart wrote: ↑Tue Jul 23, 2019 11:00 pm Has it got points & condenser or points replacement ?

When I first got mine it had a lumenition system fitted back in the 90's, found that when it got warm it died & got progressively worse at restarting. Stripped it out & put points replacement system in

Same here, Lumenition in my opinion is expensive rubbish - went back to using points and condenser, although to be fair Lumenition may be more reliable now....

I went through a spell of my car doing this, exactly as you describe. After lots of investigation and changing things and messing about, I changed the dissy cap and rotor arm and that did it for me.

Could be an air leak? Dropping idle, brakes in use. Spray carb cleaner around the carb and associated hoses and see if a leak is evident.

Idle mixture too rich? Ignition timing weights sticking in dizzy? Also check vacuum advance pipe connected both ends? This is an air leak as mentioned above and affects timing as well.

Maybe a simple top end service if none of these faults. New plugs/leads/condenser/rotor arm/cap. Set it all up again, ignition timing first then carb idle mixture. Problem will go away. Definitely.

Hi mate,

Is your car running points and condenser or has it been converted to electronic ignition?
Wayne

Running on points and condenser, both were changed about 500 miles ago along with plugs,cap and rotor arm.dont now why but when it cuts out sometimes the brake warning light also comes on.
Got my head done in.

Cheers.

Still having problems when hot, thinking about going back to basics and double checking everything.
Thanks
Allan

I had a "dying when hot " problem too, turned out to be the tacho ,something inside crapped out when hot ,and effectively shorted the tach sensor wire (from the coil ) to earth and killed the sparks,give it 20 mins to cool down and away we go again. It started as a random single hiccup accompanied with the tach needle dropping ,initially this happened so quick it was almost undetectable . When it crapped out completely I quickly found Scott knows parks ,and after fiddling with the wires round the coil it burst into life but upon getting back in the car I saw the tacho not working ,inspection showed I had neglected to connect said coil/tach wire and when I did the engine died again. I fitted another tach .........yay

Plugs are 30 thou`. Points should best be set with a dwell meter to 50`, start with a gap of 20thou` & work from there. Static timing for a 1600, with DGAV, is 8`BTDC, (disconnect & plug the vac. advance) again best done with a timing light, PLUS then you can check the advance works as you increase revs.

"I had a "dying when hot " problem too, turned out to be the tacho ,something inside crapped out when hot ,and effectively shorted the tach sensor wire (from the coil ) to earth and killed the sparks,give it 20 mins to cool down and away we go again. "
Good point, that`s very interesting, something you wouldn`t think of. IIRC it`s a green wire feeds the tacho (???), worth disconnecting just to rule that out?

All good advice from above, try putting the original condenser back in her if you still have it, had the dying when hot problem a couple of years ago and it turned out to be the 'new' condenser I put in was defective

Mr B

Will need to buy another condenser as the other one was shot as it would not start at all. Can't understand how it cuts out but starts straight back up at turn of the key.

Cheers
Allan

At first my car would restart after cutting out but it then progressed to not starting up at all until half hour or so had passed, I got so pissed off with the fact it would never bloody do it outside my house that I parked the car up and left it alone for a few days then one night I went out there started her up and left her ticking over then all of a sudden she started misfiring, I thought right I've got you now you basstard and I proceeded to change one thing at a time until finally the condenser was changed and the misfiring stopped - never had a problem since

Wayne