3.0 Ghia - Problems
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Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
Cool , it's definitely something worth eliminating. There is some guff on Google about fitting them and Burton power sell the float as a separate part (as do others )in either plastic or brass, I was trying to find out what the weight should be. I know the brass and plastic weigh different and need to be adjusted accordingly when installing. I'm sure I wrote it down somewhere as I had a job finding out.....jus gotta find it
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Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
In the video at the bottom of the carb there’s an inlet/outlet of some sort. Right by the manifold gasket. Shouldn’t that have some sort of hose or blank off on it? Might be running lumpy due to excessive air?
It’s quite big, like servo vacuum size.. mind you I’d not expect it to run like that
It’s quite big, like servo vacuum size.. mind you I’d not expect it to run like that
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Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
Hi Olly,
It isn't an inlet or outlet of any type, on the older Weber 38 dgas the mixture screw sits recessed inside that little tube, it should have an identical tube on the other side as well, the later carbs had screws with a spring on them and no tube so were easily visible and if need be could be turned by hand without the need for a small flat head screwdriver.
Mr B
It isn't an inlet or outlet of any type, on the older Weber 38 dgas the mixture screw sits recessed inside that little tube, it should have an identical tube on the other side as well, the later carbs had screws with a spring on them and no tube so were easily visible and if need be could be turned by hand without the need for a small flat head screwdriver.
Mr B
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Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
Sorted the overheating by reversing the fan (placing it on the other side). Still running lumpy and adjusting the screws doesn't appear to speed up the engine at all, so I can't get it running at its fastest point - after screwing it in or out it just seems to get lumpier rather than speeding up or slowing down.
Had the carb off and the float is fine.
Had the carb off and the float is fine.
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Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
I can't spot anywhere where it states what carb this is, but anyway -
There should be a point where you screw the mixture screw in, where the car is on the verge of cutting out, and would cut out if you kept screwing it in, because of course you are basically cutting the fuel supply off. At that point screw it back out a touch to prevent it cutting out. And perhaps another half turn, but if you are finding that the engine doesn't alter beyond that then don't turn it out any further, that will roughly be correct, although you need to set the carb up properly using the guides you can find on here or the internet. The mixture screw will be approx. 2 or 3 full turns out from being all the way in I should think.
There should be a point where you screw the mixture screw in, where the car is on the verge of cutting out, and would cut out if you kept screwing it in, because of course you are basically cutting the fuel supply off. At that point screw it back out a touch to prevent it cutting out. And perhaps another half turn, but if you are finding that the engine doesn't alter beyond that then don't turn it out any further, that will roughly be correct, although you need to set the carb up properly using the guides you can find on here or the internet. The mixture screw will be approx. 2 or 3 full turns out from being all the way in I should think.
Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
It`s hidden away inthe supplement of the Haynes Capri manual: not in the main book, the Sierra manual or the Weber manual I have dySi
The brass is 41.0mm, the plastic 35.3mm, (this is from machined base of cover to bottom of float when lightly resting on needle valve - but not depressing!).. Presumably the travel will be the same at 10mm.
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Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
Webcon should be able to supply a replacement float should you need it .
Cosmicbike seems to have had a good experience of them for Weber parts on his long running laser 1600 thread
Cosmicbike seems to have had a good experience of them for Weber parts on his long running laser 1600 thread
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Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
This may help?
Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
Well found Paul, I struggled to find info. Obviously I was wrong about travel being the same; the `hanging` measurement is 51 in both.
Sounds like, given a choice, you`re better off with the brass float as that is at least repairable with a bit of solder - and you can actually hear if there`s fuel inside? Love the old technology, I`ve always thought there was a beauty about carbs!
Sounds like, given a choice, you`re better off with the brass float as that is at least repairable with a bit of solder - and you can actually hear if there`s fuel inside? Love the old technology, I`ve always thought there was a beauty about carbs!
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Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
I love carbs, the more I study them the more I love them! The amount of development and invention involved in creating these must have been massive. The mechanics are fascinating and ingenious. And there is a sense to them, you can understand what does what and why a car behaves a certain way when an aspect of the carb fails. And, just like the beauty of these old cars, you can 'see' what's what and delve in there to have a play. I really don't desire a fuel injected car.
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Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
Completely off topic but have you seen the Jenvey Throttle bodies? They look like side draught carbs but are actually fuel injectedpbar wrote: ↑Tue Jul 09, 2019 10:05 am I love carbs, the more I study them the more I love them! The amount of development and invention involved in creating these must have been massive. The mechanics are fascinating and ingenious. And there is a sense to them, you can understand what does what and why a car behaves a certain way when an aspect of the carb fails. And, just like the beauty of these old cars, you can 'see' what's what and delve in there to have a play. I really don't desire a fuel injected car.
A wise man once said... "you can never have too many capris - buy another"
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It's me, I'm the wise man.
Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
Think I`ve seen te things you mean. I suppose if you`ve GOT to have EFI, at least you can retain the appearance of a classic.
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Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
Theres now even an all in 1 fuel injection system that looks like a standard downdraft carb. Theyve been around as replacements for 4 barrel stuff for a while but are now being made as a 2 barrel eg. 32/36 replacement to fit on a standard manifold.
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Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
pbar wrote: ↑Tue Jul 09, 2019 10:05 am I love carbs, the more I study them the more I love them! The amount of development and invention involved in creating these must have been massive. The mechanics are fascinating and ingenious. And there is a sense to them, you can understand what does what and why a car behaves a certain way when an aspect of the carb fails. And, just like the beauty of these old cars, you can 'see' what's what and delve in there to have a play.
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Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
I have a 390 Holley vacuum secondary carb on a jazzed up Essex V6 and if you love carb's you will definitely love this carburettor, I have never seen a more tuneable carb, it still fasinates me how simple airflow through the primary venturis creates enough vacuum to open the secondary chokes - it certainly let's the Essex engine off it's leash as well as your wallet at the petrol station!pbar wrote: ↑Tue Jul 09, 2019 10:05 am I love carbs, the more I study them the more I love them! The amount of development and invention involved in creating these must have been massive. The mechanics are fascinating and ingenious. And there is a sense to them, you can understand what does what and why a car behaves a certain way when an aspect of the carb fails. And, just like the beauty of these old cars, you can 'see' what's what and delve in there to have a play. I really don't desire a fuel injected car.
Wayne
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Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
I have one on my Rover engine . That's the thing with Holley's.....they might not be the best carb but they are easy to get tuned "about right" and thusly most peeps see an easy performance gain and the carb comes up a winner. Holley's have replaced a lot of Rochester and carter carbs and got the credit for "solving" the problem ,when all that was really needed was someone who knew how to fix the old carb properly
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Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
Totally agree, you can literally tune everything on the Holley carb, squirter size, squirt duration, accel pump, vacuum secondary opening time's the list goes on and on, I won't lie it did take me a little while to dial the carb in - learning as I went along but it was worth the effortMc Tool wrote: ↑Wed Jul 10, 2019 8:26 pm I have one on my Rover engine . That's the thing with Holley's.....they might not be the best carb but they are easy to get tuned "about right" and thusly most peeps see an easy performance gain and the carb comes up a winner. Holley's have replaced a lot of Rochester and carter carbs and got the credit for "solving" the problem ,when all that was really needed was someone who knew how to fix the old carb properly
Wayne
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Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
My "Big Learn" was sorting a Weber 44 dcnf on my Ducati Paso. I bought a couple of books by John Passini......good reading. Once you get your head round them carbs are easy .....hell you may even figure out why we have so many feckin emulsion tubes ,not that the codes on them follow any logical pattern . Any how I'm in the process of biffing the holley and fitting a RR efi with a meggasquirt ecu
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....out of the fryin pan........
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Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
Hi,
Just picked-up this thread so forgive me if you’re sorted. If not, I’d suggest you Speak to Secialised engines in Essex. There’s nothing these guys don’t know about the Essex V6. Always found them really knowledgeable and helpful. I’m sure they’ll be able to help or advise.
Cheers
Paul
Just picked-up this thread so forgive me if you’re sorted. If not, I’d suggest you Speak to Secialised engines in Essex. There’s nothing these guys don’t know about the Essex V6. Always found them really knowledgeable and helpful. I’m sure they’ll be able to help or advise.
Cheers
Paul
Re: 3.0 Ghia - Problems
Can't remember if I detailed it earlier in this thread, but before I swapped the mechanical fuel pump with an electrical one - I found that after 15 minutes or so of driving the fuel would start to drain back (if I lifted the bonnet I could see the fuel filter was half full and was bubbling like made; if I turned the engine off, it'd empty and refuse to fill up again until I slackened off the pump and gave it a widdle).
Since changing it with an electrical pump, this hasn't been a major problem - but I'm noticing that after 15 minutes of driving the car suddenly becomes very sluggish (not very responsive when putting foot down, sometimes juddering a bit before pulling) - so I suspect that the issue wasn't with the pump.
No idea what it is and it's driving me mad. Regarding the carb, I've got it booked in with a classic car specialist who's going to tune it for me. Any ideas?
Since changing it with an electrical pump, this hasn't been a major problem - but I'm noticing that after 15 minutes of driving the car suddenly becomes very sluggish (not very responsive when putting foot down, sometimes juddering a bit before pulling) - so I suspect that the issue wasn't with the pump.
No idea what it is and it's driving me mad. Regarding the carb, I've got it booked in with a classic car specialist who's going to tune it for me. Any ideas?