The Ford Capri Laser Page

So people - my Capri blower packed up this summer.

Although it is unlikely I would ever need the blower because I never use the Capri in winter, where I would require heat (although I know that on the move, the air rushes through anyway) or I could wrap up in layers - I don't like things that should work and are not working.

I have read a lot on here about the symptoms and then eventual failure. I seemed to have gone down that well trodden path as well - squeaky motor, sometimes would run, sometimes not, would run more predominantly on high speed. Then stopped forever.

I have now stripped all the underside dashboard off, glove box and the instrument surround. My next shot is to buy a motor, disconnect the coolant hoses, undo the 4 bolts retaining the heater motor box and hopefully work on it on the bench.

Just before I mess around that far, it did occur to me that it could be the switch, not necessarily the motor.

I think it is the motor, as the symptoms were the same as some of you who may have experienced this failure. But just want to rule out the obvious before money, time, effort, coolant dropping, squeezing the box out through the hole.

Is there a way to test a live to the heater motor. I am thinking that the 3 terminals on the motor is a ground, slow speed, fast speed ? Would this be correct ? And if I found a live to both posi wires, when switched, it definitely is the motor at fault ? If there is no live, it's the switch ? Am I looking at this correctly or all t' c**k. ?

It would be handy to rule out the switch. Otherwise, I'll just plod along down the road to splitting the box and getting the old motor out, new motor in.

Thanks people. Your guidance is, as always, really appreciated.

There have been several posts on this subject so probably worth a search if you haven't already on this and the other Capri forum.

The negative / earth wire is switched whilst the live feed goes straight to the blower motor. The quickest way of checking whether it is the switch is to take the connector off the back of the switch and put 2 short bits of wire in there to connect the 3 terminals together then switch the ignition on. The reason you connect all 3 together is because that will bypass the resistor which provides the slower speed (and can be a failure point). If it works then the switch is duff so give Martin a shout for a good 2nd hand replacement.

If it doesnt do anything then it will be either the fuse, the wiring (the lucar terminals can get dislodged from the front of the heater box) - or the heater motor itself. Try the others first as they are free.

Thank you for your detailed response. And I make my apologies for the seemingly lazy way of searching this when it probably has been answered many times. I did have a search and I am sure there are responses that I needed, but I didn't see. But anyway - thank you.

I have checked the fuse - this is OK. I did check the terminals on heater box itself (the motor) but you have pointed me to something else there to check the wiring for continuity.

Thanks for the guidance on the switch. I didn't realise this was an earth switch. Probably if I had searched a bit more, I am sure I would have found that.

I'll make the checks and then will report back with my findings for assistance for anyone else. I am clear now on the direction I need to take.

Martin at Capri Gear who is in sunny Oxford watching naked volleyball at the moment does the whole kit for the heater as once out it makes sence changing all the bits .even the rubber seals as well .

Here’s martins website https://www.caprigear.co.uk/repairs/
Also you have Tickover at Dartford or Capri club . They are the only 3 I use and they are all good .

+ 1 all very good and knowledgeable suppliers. They will never willingly sell you something that you don't need.

After you have checked shorting across the switch Id say the next test, if you can get hold of a multimeter, is to check for the presence of a voltage at the connections on the front of the heater. Check all combinations of the 3 wires that go into the heater here. (Live, switched earth normal and switched earth for the low speed) test with the fan switch in both high and low positions for each combination that you try.

If there is voltage as far as this when the ignition and fan switch are on but no movement of the fan then you will know that the wiring up to this point is fine and the fault can only lie inside the heater box itself- either the fan motor or the immediate wiring that feeds it.

All Martin has listed the package on eBay again ..https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2862580571

Jasonmarie wrote:All Martin has listed the package on eBay again ..https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2862580571

That's a great buy, and as you say, all the heater parts will be new and that should mean that it will give many years of trouble-free service.

Andrew.

Not_Anumber wrote:+ 1 all very good and knowledgeable suppliers. They will never willingly sell you something that you don't need.

After you have checked shorting across the switch Id say the next test, if you can get hold of a multimeter, is to check for the presence of a voltage at the connections on the front of the heater. Check all combinations of the 3 wires that go into the heater here. (Live, switched earth normal and switched earth for the low speed) test with the fan switch in both high and low positions for each combination that you try.

If there is voltage as far as this when the ignition and fan switch are on but no movement of the fan then you will know that the wiring up to this point is fine and the fault can only lie inside the heater box itself- either the fan motor or the immediate wiring that feeds it.

Thanks for this - that is some very good advice. Yes, I have a multimeter so can check all of this. Thank you again!

If it transpires to be the motor, I might ask Martin if he would like the job of stripping mine and placing in those new parts. Or taking mine in part ex for another he may have re-built. I need to speak to him and I know he is on holiday at the mo.

I don't normally duck out of the job like this that just needs a bit of patience, careful planning and not so much technical know-how. But I feel that I am messing around with stuff that is 35yrs old and sometimes discretion is the better part of valour - basically, one clumsy slip and something breaks that wouldn't have done with someone doing the job all of the time. I'll get the box out for Martin - but I am considering that direction.

But I'll check these terminals / switch first.

Unfortunately, I am at least a week away from that as I have some stitches in my back after a small op today. Doctor has said no lifting, grovelling, twisting for a week at least. So when I asked would my head up inside a dashboard, with my body contorted to the curvatures of the car help the progress of my recovery, the suggestion was met with (what I would describe) a face of horror. So that's probably a "No" then!

Looks like we are all in the same boat at the moment as I have my legs turned off at the moment and waiting to get them back on Monday ...
sounds like madness , I am just waiting for the doctor to ring as my hands are like pins and needles , what these doctors can do is amazing .
Nextyear I am going to guys in the Capri to take my neurologist out for a spin as I won the bet with him . ( well he is winning at the moment )

Ready for a laugh
My bloody legs

Jasonmarie wrote: I have my legs turned off at the moment and waiting to get them back on Monday ...

Wishing you well, Jason.

Andrew.

Yes I use to it now ,thank you Andrew it’s my MOT time , just think how funny it is now it’s the learning to walk again that takes it time .
I call it my Steve Austin’s time as the six million dollar time .

When I needed mine doing I got a complete replacement box ready to go in, from Tickover, was about £70 I think.

I have it in mind to open up my original one and just replace the motor, for next time the job needs doing.

Yes, likewise - hope you recover soon Jason. Mine seems quite trivial to what you are going through.

Pbar - thanks for that guidance. I may speak with Tickover as well. Let me see what martin comes back with first, since I did ask him first.