340truck wrote:Ok. Pumping the accelerator 4 times before starting will over richen the mixture because the accelerator pump squirts fuel directly into the carb ventury when it's not sucking in any air so it sits in the bottom of the manifold until it mixes with the already rich cold start mixture when the engine begins to turn. In fact you're probably flooding it. One press of the accelerator should cause the auto choke to come into play.
Paul G wrote:I'm afraid to say but at 200,000 + KM that little carb is going to be well worn out and may give the problems you say. You at least need to strip it down and put in a gasket set but check that the throttle butterfly spindle isn't worn where it goes through the casing of the carb. This is the main place where they suck in excess air causing stalling and rough running when at idle like in the traffic situation you describe.
Is it a manual or auto choke? If it's an auto has the choke unit stopped working properly. Take the air filter off when the engine is cold and check the choke flap is closed.
The ignition timing range for your model is 6-8 degrees so if it's pinking i would go back to 6 or even a tiny bit more.
Finally, have you done a compression test? You said the valve clearances had closed up to half what they should be so there is a risk of a bit of valve seat damage.
Paul G wrote:If you want to stay with the single venturi carb and not change the manifold etc then this will be the one
You will have to fit a choke cable with this.
I agree with 340 that the twin choke DGAV is a much better carb and will give you much more performance plus probably better fuel economy.
Your car, your choice.
340truck wrote:Yep correct Weber is 32/36 DGAV. No manifold adaptor...you have to get a suitable manifold. And, as yours is an auto, you'll need to sort the kickdown cable as well.
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