The Ford Capri Laser Page

Sorry for the slightly daft question but after a lot of searching on the forum I can only seem to find how to take underseal off, not which underseal is the best to use and which brand would be best, just after a bit of advice/guidance really from you guys please!

Any help would be absolutely great, both cars need doing now and I can't keep putting it off!

Cheers
Danny

I've used a few cans of this in recent years and it's bloody brilliant! Though it seems not the cheapest currently...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Liqui-Moly-Und ... 001CZODD2/

My old lady has had DINITROL from day one and it’s top up every 3 years before we did the car last year ( just top up ) I did some recearch and they say it’s better then waxoye . I do think that has help save the Capri from the rest worm in its 31 years .

Jasonmarie wrote:My old lady has had DINITROL from day one and it’s top up every 3 years before we did the car last year ( just top up ) I did some recearch and they say it’s better then waxoye . I do think that has help save the Capri from the rest worm in its 31 years .

I've heard Dinitrol is often preferred to Waxoyl, but I haven't used it.....

This stuff is great -



I know someone who has used this on their Capri from new and it's still sound decades later.

Easy to apply too and keep on top of, just brush on as you think you need to. Can get it as a spray also if you prefer.

pbar wrote:This stuff is great -



I know someone who has used this on their Capri from new and it's still sound decades later.

Easy to apply too and keep on top of, just brush on as you think you need to. Can get it as a spray also if you prefer.

I have a nearly full spray can of this that I used on my XR2 just to touch up the underside where required...... Seems good

It does look good, but the trouble with black products is you can't see whats going on underneath it, which I think is why some MOT testers put thick/heavily undrersealed as an advisory, as it can also hide a multitude of sins

Clear Waxoyl could be the best option......

Hi Danny,
What's you car done with at the moment? If it's covered in underseal, you may as well continue using Hammerite underbody seal as suggested. Personally, I hate the thick stuff that doesn't fully dry. I know it helps to protect your car, but makes such a mess!
If your car doesn't have any underbody protection at the moment, this could be good stuff to use as, I believe, it dries harder than regular underseal.
https://www.frost.co.uk/schutz-underseal-1-litre.html
Note that it needs to be applied with an airgun though.
I would suggest that Waxoyling all the cavities on the underside may also be a good idea. You can buy it in an aerosol, but that won't be as good as having it done properly.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/HAMMERITE-WAXO ... B00FGUHVLK

Andrew.

Thanks for the replies guys; as far as I'm aware neither have been touched since new, or it certainly appears that way as they both appear to have nothing/very little on them!

I have previously just used a standard can of Hammerite paint underneath the laser just to vaguely protect it and have something underneath but am aware that it won't be quite enough.

The Hammerite body seal with Waxoyl sounds ideal, but I see what you mean with the black underseal and how clear would be better, but I also read about how some people have jacked their car up afterwards and its all been left on the jack when they take it down again as Andrew has said!

Tempted to use the spray you've recommended there Andrew for the hard to get at places and then use the black Hammeritre stuff to paint the undersides properly....?

One of the things about the canned waxoyl is you still have to apply it in appropriate conditions etc. If it is warm it will be vastly easier to apply than if cold. I take a bucket of hot water out when I do it, or leave the waxoyl cans in the sun for a little while first!

I have an old bit of carpet in the garage which I get out and then roll the car over the top of it. Then wear scruffy old clothes / overalls, as you will get covered in the stuff, whether you like it or not! Shower cap if you're proud of your barnet!

D366Y wrote:but I also read about how some people have jacked their car up afterwards and its all been left on the jack when they take it down again

It really isn't that bad. It doesn't stay wet as such. But if you was to dig your fingernail in it hard, it would scrape off and you would have some black on you as it remains flexible. But hard flexible, hope that makes some sense! You don't get it all over you when doing jobs underneath the car. I jack the car on the crossmember using a block of wood, and yes, some black does transfer to the wood, but it's more of a dirty looking piece of wood then, as opposed to a sticky mess.

It's so easy to keep on top of, after doing a job under there, or when inspecting the underside, if you see a patch wearing thin for example, just crack the tin open and spend a few minutes brushing it on to bring the protection back and off you go.

Jasonmarie wrote:My old lady has had DINITROL from day one and it’s top up every 3 years before we did the car last year ( just top up ) I did some recearch and they say it’s better then waxoye . I do think that has help save the Capri from the rest worm in its 31 years .

Second Dinitrol. It stays flexible so doesn't crack with age. Personally I hate under seal, it will hide issues. Looks great, but unfortunately the rust spreads underneath it and the first you know about it is when you have a gaping hole under your car and a sheet of under seal on the floor.

I use Dinitrol 4941 https://www.frost.co.uk/dinitrol-4941-b ... ating.html Mine is a brush on tin, but can't find anyone who sells it now except in the shutz style canisters or aerosol.

Been really helpful thanks guys!

Luckily someone I know runs a garage himself and has said I can borrow his ramps to get the car up above head height to save me rolling around underneath it, I just need to choose my weapon now and crack on with it!

Cheers
Danny

If the car has been always undersealed then it is good to top up for a time. But at somepoint, it is best to look underneath and see what it really looks like.
I reckon 10years is a good point to strip back and take a good look and then it makes you more worried as underseal can also hide rot where moisture has been trapped in.

For my car i completely stripped back to metal. Whilst the car was on a spit i etch primed the complete car. Then used a light primer. Then high build primer and then painted black top coat. After that i then sealed the joins and edges with seam sealers and mastik stuff. After all of that the car is then shutz'd.
Alot of protection, but the underneath will get battered. Most cars from factory are treated this way nowadays and rust isn't really an issue anymore for most manufacturers.
But i do think when undersealing the car after being on the road i would then top up with the Waxoyl substance because it never really 100% dries. Therefore it is more resistant to stone chips. Then wash the car completely. Allow to dry and then apply more and keep it topped up for a 10 year cycle again.

I don't get why people only paint the underneath of freshly restored cars so they can look factory! These cars must not be actually used otherwise stonechips are just going to cause rust to start. Seems a bit pointless to me, pay £0000's to restore a car, don't underseal it and then it will rust again and cost more money. Unless of course it is some garage queen and then it really isn't a car anymore!

Will01 wrote: I don't get why people only paint the underneath of freshly restored cars so they can look factory! These cars must not be actually used otherwise stonechips are just going to cause rust to start. Seems a bit pointless to me, pay £0000's to restore a car, don't underseal it and then it will rust again and cost more money. Unless of course it is some garage queen and then it really isn't a car anymore!

I always wondered if people ever undersealed them or not but it does seem a silly thing to do... Considering I use mine everyday they will be getting a mighty thick coat of protection I think

Thanks for the advice as well

Danny

Will01 wrote:If the car has been always undersealed then it is good to top up for a time. But at somepoint, it is best to look underneath and see what it really looks like.
I reckon 10years is a good point to strip back and take a good look and then it makes you more worried as underseal can also hide rot where moisture has been trapped in.

I completely agree with this, I am currently doing a S2 escort rs turbo which was undersealed and cavity waxed, underneath the original underseal that has been topped up there was lots of rust hiding, I am going through the thing from top to bottom, my reccomendation is to stay clear of the cheap crap tar like stuff because that does trap moisture in, you would probably do it a justice by taking off all the stuff on there painting the surface with a good zinc rich base then coating with pull gravitex then giving some paint on the top of that then cavity wax the chassis legs and sill cavities and inside the door carcass, it should give you a good waterproof barrier

tejb1 wrote:
I have an old bit of carpet in the garage which I get out and then roll the car over the top of it.

I had to re read that bit ....... for a moment I thought you meant you 'rolled your car over' in the literal sense!

Would make life easy though

fordperv wrote:

Will01 wrote:If the car has been always undersealed then it is good to top up for a time. But at somepoint, it is best to look underneath and see what it really looks like.
I reckon 10years is a good point to strip back and take a good look and then it makes you more worried as underseal can also hide rot where moisture has been trapped in.

I completely agree with this, I am currently doing a S2 escort rs turbo which was undersealed and cavity waxed, underneath the original underseal that has been topped up there was lots of rust hiding, I am going through the thing from top to bottom, my reccomendation is to stay clear of the cheap crap tar like stuff because that does trap moisture in, you would probably do it a justice by taking off all the stuff on there painting the surface with a good zinc rich base then coating with pull gravitex then giving some paint on the top of that then cavity wax the chassis legs and sill cavities and inside the door carcass, it should give you a good waterproof barrier

Thanks guys, will start looking for some ingredients then now I seem to be getting a clearer picture of what to do!

Cheers
Danny