Mk1 1.6 master cyclinder and servo - lots of questions

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rafcapri
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Nov 04, 2016 12:33 am
Car(s): Ford Capri 1600XL 1974

Mk1 1.6 master cyclinder and servo - lots of questions

Postby rafcapri » Thu Dec 07, 2017 1:16 am

Hi guys, my master and brake servo have seen better days. it's leaky at the seal, between the master and the servo, and more importantly there is no bite when I press the pedal when I stop at a light. it sinks into the floor slowly and I have to lift my feet up quickly and press it again to avoid hitting someone in front and Auckland is very hilly! Any idea what's causing this sinking feeling?

What specifically should I replace? Should I replace with factory parts from Tickover/Burton or find better ones/upgrade? If yes, where can I find better parts? Any links would be great. Does the brake fluid need to be completely full all the time since mine is leaky, it drops down often. And what DOT fluid should I use? Once I saw the plastic cap on the reservoir squirting fluid everytime I pressed the brake pedal, I fixed that with super glue - seems to improve the braking for a month before it started to be even worse than before.

I have changed front pads and rotor. I've not done the shoes at the back and I know it's high time, so will need to get that replaced very soon as well - Tickover has the right size which is 45mm.

Any input is appreciated.

cheers

Paul G
Posts: 735
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2015 5:21 pm
Car(s): MK 3 3.0S needing restoration, 2.0S, 1.6 Laser (nearly ready), Fiesta mK2 pop plus, Skoda Octavia VRS, Rover SD1 Vitesse.
Location: High Wycombe

Re: Mk1 1.6 master cyclinder and servo - lots of questions

Postby Paul G » Thu Dec 07, 2017 9:02 am

rafcapri wrote:Hi guys, my master and brake servo have seen better days. it's leaky at the seal, between the master and the servo, and more importantly there is no bite when I press the pedal when I stop at a light. it sinks into the floor slowly and I have to lift my feet up quickly and press it again to avoid hitting someone in front and Auckland is very hilly! Any idea what's causing this sinking feeling?

What specifically should I replace? Should I replace with factory parts from Tickover/Burton or find better ones/upgrade? If yes, where can I find better parts? Any links would be great. Does the brake fluid need to be completely full all the time since mine is leaky, it drops down often. And what DOT fluid should I use? Once I saw the plastic cap on the reservoir squirting fluid everytime I pressed the brake pedal, I fixed that with super glue - seems to improve the braking for a month before it started to be even worse than before.

I have changed front pads and rotor. I've not done the shoes at the back and I know it's high time, so will need to get that replaced very soon as well - Tickover has the right size which is 45mm.

Any input is appreciated.

cheers


Hi raf

I know the hills of Auckland well and good brakes are a must! I assume your car is a MK1 facelift with single circuit brakes. These master cylinders are getting hard to get from what I have read; it might pay to try a seal kit in it but if it's spraying back through the reservoir then it's pretty knackered. It may be more cost effestive if you can find someone locally who can re-sleave the cylinder and fit new internals. this is where they bore out the inside of the cylinder and fit a stainless steel sleave to the right diameter and rebuild the cylinder as good as new.

It would probably pay you to also contact Martin who goes by the name of Capri Gear on here. He is a Capri expert and one of this country's leading parts suppliers - he will probably be able to help you or guide you in the right direction.

With a car the age of yours I would suggest changing the rear wheel cylinders as well when you do the rear brakes then that will be all the hydraulics up to scratch and will look better when you take the car for its warrant of fitness.

Not_Anumber
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Car(s): 2.8 Injection 1983 weekend use. Restoring:1980 MGB GT + 1964 Honda 250 bike. Previously owned 2 Capris.

Re: Mk1 1.6 master cyclinder and servo - lots of questions

Postby Not_Anumber » Thu Dec 07, 2017 7:19 pm

could it be practical to change to a dual circuit system perhaps given that all the parts are available and it would provide greater safety.

Mc Tool
Posts: 541
Joined: Sat May 17, 2014 8:34 pm
Car(s): 1980 mk3 capri 2l ohc T9 , Toyota Blade Master 3.5l V6, Paso , 850T,rd400, 900ss
Location: Invercargill New Zealand

Re: Mk1 1.6 master cyclinder and servo - lots of questions

Postby Mc Tool » Thu Dec 07, 2017 9:45 pm

Its always worth a look 1st , but that can mean car off road for a while . It might not be to bad , you may only need a seal kit , however if it were me Id go for the dual circuit up grade , involves a bit of pipework and a few small parts . new rear wheel cylinders can be almost as cheap as a seal kit . If you do do the repair it would pay to remove the booster and make sure that its not 1/2 full of brake fluid. Shop around for parts as I was quoted anything between 35 and 185 bucks for a dual circuit master cyl . I have had great success with Burtons so they are an option , just don't forget the GST/ customs / cleaning fee's ( cnuts charged me for decontamination of a box of parts from Canada that wasn't even opened :wank:
If you can it would pay to do the whole braking system ..... rear cylinders/ seals , master cyl /seals , caliper seals and flush the lines . Most of the bits are relatively cheap and if you can do the job yourself its a box that wont need ticked again for a fair while :)
I have the patience of a saint ........Saint cnuty Mc Fuckoff

rafcapri
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Nov 04, 2016 12:33 am
Car(s): Ford Capri 1600XL 1974

Re: Mk1 1.6 master cyclinder and servo - lots of questions

Postby rafcapri » Thu Dec 07, 2017 10:55 pm

That's fab guys, there's some direction here that is always helpful. Look like I've underestimated the components to get good braking.

A. Complete overhaul: Overhaul/upgrade and replace with pipes, replace mc with dual circuit, repair/upgrade booster, replace/upgrade rear wheel and replace shoes? Any workshops you guys can recommend?

B. Repair and replace: If I were to replace with factory master cyclinder, rear cyclinder, shoes, flush everything - do i need to replace the booster as well or it just need to be serviced/flushed? Any workshop that you can recommend?

Between the two options - which is less costly? And will one be much better than the other? As it's a daily and i don't drive higher than 100km/h, do I need option A at all?

Ta

raf

Mc Tool
Posts: 541
Joined: Sat May 17, 2014 8:34 pm
Car(s): 1980 mk3 capri 2l ohc T9 , Toyota Blade Master 3.5l V6, Paso , 850T,rd400, 900ss
Location: Invercargill New Zealand

Re: Mk1 1.6 master cyclinder and servo - lots of questions

Postby Mc Tool » Fri Dec 08, 2017 4:15 am

If your happy with the brakes , apart from the leak and the pedal to the floor thing , both of which could reasonably be blamed on the master cyl , then I would remove cyl and check for rust pitting on cyl wall. If no pitting ( or other damage ) then go for the seal kit and bleed the brakes . If there is pitting then its reasonable to expect similar damage in the calipers and rear wheel cylinders as contaminated ( with water ) brake fluid is the cause and it usually starts at the master cyl and progresses thru the system , so you should at least check for further damage.
Part of the essence of classic motoring is that you fix this stuff yourself :xd: and on the scale of things a brake job is not a biggie , but if you need the car for work then having it off the road while you nut it out is out . Haynes manuals are about all you will find here. . A daily driver will be fine with the standard kit, but it still has to work :D
I have the patience of a saint ........Saint cnuty Mc Fuckoff


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