The Ford Capri Laser Page

Hi

I wonder if anyone can lead me in the direction of what is causing a droning noise from the front left wheel arch?

The car has done this since I bought it in August before and after new additions listed below:

*new track control arm bushes replaced
*new front wheel bearings replaced
*new extended wheel studs
*new wheels

After the car has been driven from a cold start after 4 miles or so in any gear or free wheeling a droaning tone is audible from the front left wheel arch area.

On the ramp the fronts can’t be spun to locate the issue as they free wheel too slow. The brakes calipers have been reconditioned in the past 14 months and look new with nothing noticeable to report.

I have wondered if it is due to the brakes heating up with the Caliper sticking.

It’s more prominent wuch as the right front wheel is driven over a mini roundabout and the left wheel is driven on the road. The load is shifted and the droan starts. I can turn right to judder the steering sharply and the droan stops.

It’s less of a droan since the work above has been carried out but bugging me as the steering feels spot on now.

If anyone has any ideas I’m all ears!!

Cheers

The back plate isn't rubbing on the disc is it Dave? They can be very close to each other especially if it's bent a little.

pbar wrote:The back plate isn't rubbing on the disc is it Dave? They can be very close to each other especially if it's bent a little.

• Paul G wrote:

  pbar wrote:The back plate isn't rubbing on the disc is it Dave? They can be very close to each other especially if it's bent a little.

  

pbar wrote:The back plate isn't rubbing on the disc is it Dave? They can be very close to each other especially if it's bent a little.

Thanks both Paul’s!! I will have a look Saturday morning when checking on the new studs at the garage. Fingers crossed!!

After 4 miles it sounds like something is heating up. Wheel bearing is prime suspect. It may have been tightened too much, they must not be tight as they are a tapered bearing. Lots of cars use bearing with parallel inner & outer races with balls or rollers in between that must be torqued tight but tapered need precise adjustment.
Jack it up & hold it top & bottom and try to rock it in & out. Very fine perceptible play is acceptable, remove split pin, slacken the nut till you get this perceptible play then tighten to the next split pin hole & test run it.

Hi

I thought i’d Update the issue I’d had. It become so annoying after a 20 min drive I’ve temporarily given up.

I had the Caliper replaced with a new / refurbished one and after a hour or so driving no more droaning. The piston had been stuck before and left to soak and release the seizure which had been successful. However my experience of Caliper fixes on other cars leads me to just replace the culprit.

Happy to drive my Capri again!!

Thanks for everyone’s ideas and advice.

And I'd like to induct you into the (sadly) very exclusive club of people who ask for advice and then actually bother to give feedback for the benefit of others.
Well done sir!

Bug wrote:And I'd like to induct you into the (sadly) very exclusive club of people who ask for advice and then actually bother to give feedback for the benefit of others.
Well done sir!

Thanks Bug, glad to be a part of the club..ha I’ll need to update again it seems...

The droan has returned!!!

So after all that has been done it’s progressivley got worse over time.

I’m taking it to the garage so we’ll look into the back plate again though that was okay we thought. No reason to doubt.

Anyone know the torque settings for new wheel bearings? I’ve two spare packs thankfully though not sure that’s culprit!?

Any ideas welcome.

To recap this is what is new below:

Track control arm bushes
Caliper
Extended studs (problem was there before change of Laser wheels to JBW RS4’s)
Front wheel bearings

Cheers

Just to eliminate the possibility - it's not a rubbing mud flap is it?

Peter-S wrote:Just to eliminate the possibility - it's not a rubbing mud flap is it?

Hi Peter, I don’t have any on yet. Thanks

Sometimes cheap tyres can cause excessive road noise, and this can appear as a drone. Had this experience recently with a customers Mondeo

aikmanmosquito wrote:Sometimes cheap tyres can cause excessive road noise, and this can appear as a drone. Had this experience recently with a customers Mondeo

I’ve got 8 month old bought new JBW RS4 wheels and put 4 new Toyo Proxes on. The problem was present with the old original wheels and good tyres too.

Thanks for your input!

Dave1968 wrote: On the ramp the fronts can’t be spun to locate the issue as they free wheel too slow.

Have you tried spinning the wheel with the brake pads removed?

Peter-S wrote:

Dave1968 wrote: On the ramp the fronts can’t be spun to locate the issue as they free wheel too slow.

Have you tried spinning the wheel with the brake pads removed?

Hi Peter
No, we’ve not spun the wheel without the brake pads. I may try that next time. Thanks. What were you expecting if so?

Had the car on the ramp this evening. The wheels turn freely and brake as they should. The wheel bearing is loose and works as it should. Nicely spinning...

It appears after a little more closer look the sprocket (not sure that’s the correct term) has popped out.

It was put back in but with the first squeal after a 20 min drive I think it’s worked it’s way out again.

I’m going to get a brake disc kit, get it copper greased and we’ll see how that fairs..

I’ll update once it’s all been fitted etc.

Cheers

Try to put a wheel from the back or spare that is a different tread pattern
Other than that try the strut top mount
252944250081 or 262991105137

Bod9084 wrote:Try to put a wheel from the back or spare that is a different tread pattern
Other than that try the strut top mount
252944250081 or 262991105137

Good point!!! The strut top mount rubbers need replacing. Thanks!!

The wheels before were Laser wheels and the droan and was apparent. Since I changed to new JBW RS4’s they still droan. Might be worth changing all the same.

Thanks

Dave1968 wrote:

Peter-S wrote:

Dave1968 wrote: Hi Peter
No, we’ve not spun the wheel without the brake pads. I may try that next time. Thanks. What were you expecting if so?

Just thinking if it spins up more without the pads and the droan is still there then it not the brakes causing the problem

Dave1968 wrote: Anyone know the torque settings for new wheel bearings

As posted above.
Jack it up, remove the split pin & have a fiddle with the nut tension. You'll get a feel for how tight it is as you try to spin the wheel.
When you are happy that you can feel the 'perceptible play' then go ahead & fit new bearings & adjust to suit.
Old races can be used to drift in the new races but use the thick edge against the new thin edge so you have something to tap against to remove the old one when done.

Droning noise is classic wheel bearing wear/out of adjustment!

Thought I’d update the post.

The new wheel bearing is fine, nothing to fault with same tests as before.

I decided to buy a new set of brake pads and a new brake pad fitting kit. We noticed the last time in the pit the existing brake pad fitting kit had sprung out. I’m guessing this is the problem. Fingers crossed.

For the record the brake Caliper we replaced had been defective and seized in the past. Few issues on old mots made me decide to replace for new parts until the problem stopped.

So, since the last four days the droan has stopped. Smooth noise free braking.

I hope not to report back.

Thanks again for everyone’s help and advice