So I'm putting the suspension all back together, following the guide from Beakster and the technical page on here. I have everything back together loosely ready to put the weight back onto the wheels before final tightening.
So, how am I supposed to torque the TCA to strut ball joint nut to 33 lb/ft? There's no way I'm getting my torque wrench and socket in the gap! Do you guys just do it by feel?
There are loads of other bolts that have no torque specified in the Haynes for them (like the crossmember to chassis rail) so I just do them up by feel. Never had anything come loose on me yet, but since this one is actually listed I wondered what everyone else does.
Dave
Stoopid question...
- Peter-S
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Re: Stoopid question...
About the only time I get the torque wrench out is for engine bolts, everything else is just done up tight and checked once in a while. seems to work
- pbar
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Re: Stoopid question...
It's impossible to get one on, so yes I have often wondered that, on cars of such an age where everything is much less precise than when these cars were new, if torque settings are as important as they once were. Still, I do usually torque everything by the book, but in that situation you just can't get the wrench in place.damajin wrote: So, how am I supposed to torque the TCA to strut ball joint nut to 33 lb/ft? There's no way I'm getting my torque wrench and socket in the gap! Do you guys just do it by feel?
Re: Stoopid question...
I always use my calibrated right arm on stuff like that
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Re: Stoopid question...
Likewise, it's pretty much all I use the Haynes manual for these days. I figure if it's specified, it take no extra time to put the socket on the torque wrench and tighten it up with that.pbar wrote: Still, I do usually torque everything by the book, but in that situation you just can't get the wrench in place.
Yeah, that's what I figured. I just don't get why it's even specified if there's no way to confirm it. I even googled low clearance torque wrenches but my budget doesn't stretch this far:fordperv wrote:I always use my calibrated right arm on stuff like that
https://www.industrial-supply.co.uk/19- ... gEQAvD_BwE
Re: Stoopid question...
Three white knuckles should do it
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Re: Stoopid question...
You might get on it with a crow's foot adaptor, but generally using common sense and pulling it up as tight as you reasonably can should be OK. Nearly all suspension torques say the car should be on its wheels but unless you've got a 4 poster lift or a pit it's bloody difficult to do. Common sense is the key to it, leave them too loose and your wheels will fall off - simples!damajin wrote:Likewise, it's pretty much all I use the Haynes manual for these days. I figure if it's specified, it take no extra time to put the socket on the torque wrench and tighten it up with that.pbar wrote: Still, I do usually torque everything by the book, but in that situation you just can't get the wrench in place.
Yeah, that's what I figured. I just don't get why it's even specified if there's no way to confirm it. I even googled low clearance torque wrenches but my budget doesn't stretch this far:fordperv wrote:I always use my calibrated right arm on stuff like that
https://www.industrial-supply.co.uk/19- ... gEQAvD_BwE