Valve clearances..

[William Walters]

The other day I attempted my first ever work on the engine - checking the valve clearances. And of course, now I have a lot of questions..

1) A friend told me this but I just wanted to be certain - when looking at the valves on a 2.0 pinto from front to back does the order go exhaust, inlet, exhaust, inlet, exhaust, inlet, inlet, exhaust?

2) The very first valve (the exhaust) after initially managing to adjust it - slackened off a lot. I adjusted it to the correct clearance with the spanner but it was probably loose enough to adjust it with my fingers. Does this being so loose mean it will most likely slip out of place rather quickly?

3) I can't actually remember which ones worked exactly but basically 4 of the valves I was unable to adjust at all as the nuts were too tight. My spanner was warping and getting bit gauges in it - it was that tight. So my question is - is there some better tool to use for this? Someone suggested a bent spanner to me to get to the trickier ones, although they seemed too tight that I reckon I still wouldn't be able to move them at all.

Any tips and advice would be much appreciated!

Thanks,
Will

[stevemarl]

1) A friend told me this but I just wanted to be certain - when looking at the valves on a 2.0 pinto from front to back does the order go exhaust, inlet, exhaust, inlet, exhaust, inlet, inlet, exhaust?

No, it`s exhaust inlet, exhaust inlet, exhaust inlet, exhaust inlet. (If unsure you can tell by looking at the corresponding manifold branch.)

From the rest of your post, (some coming loose, some too tight to adjust) it sounds as though you`re not using the locking nuts at the bottom of the adjuster studs? Loosen the locknut very slightly, adjust the stud for correct clearance, retighten locknut.

[Mc Tool]

And you will have to remove the carb to get good access to no's 2 and 3 inlet adjuster. I have the fuel/ coolant hoses ect long enough so that I can lift off carb without having to remove hoses .... just disconnect the throttle link at the carb. The clearances are 8 thou for the ex and 10 for the inlet but I set mine at 9 &11. Lock nuts don't have to be stupidly tight but even with the correct sized spanners and the carb off to one side ( don't drop the spring washers down the manifold ) its a fiddly job, and you have to allow for the clearance to close up a bit when you nip up the lock nuts, and if you start loosing your mind trying to get it right .... if the ball studs are worn excessively ( like not round any more ) the change in clearance can be inconsistent as you rotate the ball stud to effect adjustment. Its one of them things that is a proper bitch the 1st time you do it .... and probly the 2nd but you will get the knack . I have a pair of spanners with bits ground off and bent to make it easier but it can be done with normal spanners

[Fordoholic Nick]

Its one of them things that is a proper bitch the 1st time you do it .... and probly the 2nd but you will get the knack . I have a pair of spanners with bits ground off and bent to make it easier but it can be done with normal spanners

I did this for the very first time a while back with the help from John (taff50ish) who kindly popped round to "show me the ropes". Yep the number of times the adjustment needed resetting after "setting" was indeed very testing but we managed to get there...with normal spanners...just !! The "awkward ones" really did push us to the limits with my normal spanners but we did eventually get it after quite a few attempts as said...adjust, tighten, check...re-adjust, tighten, check, re-adjust, tighten, check

Now I may be incorrect but I think a spanner similar to this was designed for this specific task...

http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2007/6/20 ... 628-01.jpg

These are very difficult to come by now but John advised me at the time that a set of these would hopefully do the job...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Tools- ... 4QRR2T3FHw

As said it really is a knack you pick up from doing it a few times so I for one will probably still be "re-adjusting" them next time I check them

Don't know if this will be of any use to you too but I seen this video on you tube, even thought he has the engine on a workbench you still get the idea...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJV672Yzflk

All the best

Nick

[r2vdh]

For reference they call this a Crows foot spanner.
Some adjust when warm some adjust when cold.
I normally adjust with a cold engine as they tighten up a bit so when warm and wont be some tappy. Everyone has their own preference. Some do it when the engine is hot as it will give you the correct manufacturers valve clearance when hot.

Makesure you retest with you slip gauge once you tighten the lock nut as this will change the clearance when you tighten it! Undo and retry if wrong.

[Peter-S]

Whereabouts are you, there maybe someone not too far away who can help out a little

[pbar]

You might find a read through this thread to be of some use -

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=48382&p=320546&hil ... er#p320546

[Bug]

If you look straight down on top of the head with the cover off, it is very simple to see which valve lines up with the exhaust and inlet manifolds. Can't remember off the top of my head but I don't seem to remember them being simply exh-inlet repeated all the way along?

[340truck]

Can we all take a step back here....and re-read the first post again. Seems to me the writer is trying to do the adjustment without loosening then re-tightening the lock nut. This is why 4 will not come loose...the lock nut is holding. And the ones he does do won't stay "right" because they're not being locked.

With the greatest respect....get yourself a Haynes manual, read the description of how to do this job and study the pictures until you understand exactly how to do it. I think any problems you are having will be solved without any further advice.

[jimmyted]

https://youtu.be/RJV672Yzflk

[340truck]

That's a good video...except it is a bit harder when the engine is in the car

[jimmyted]

Improvisation Dave!

Someone told me the other day that Meccano deliberately made mistakes in the instructions, and gave kids extra pieces in the kits, just to force them to think outside of the box.

Come to think of it.. I never really was that good at Meccano!

[mjcapri]

As per Dave's advice; get a manual it's essential if you're just starting out.

You can usually find the special adjusting spanners on eBay, I think somebody still makes them.

If you're planning on doing some work on your car get a decent set of spanners. You can pick up used Britool, King Dick etc. for penny's or King Dick are still available new (so are Britool but they're not what they used to be). Alternatively the German brands such as Gedore, Elora, Stahlwille etc. are also very good. I have a lot of Unior (made in Slovenia) they are top quality and can occasionally be found at bargain prices on eBay. Spanners like these don't bend!

[Bug]

As per Dave's advice; get a manual it's essential if you're just starting out.

Cheekily hijacking this maybe, but I've got a couple of Haynes Manuals gathering dust here.............................