Newbie buying questions

[tejb1]

Hi all,

I posted about a year ago as I was thinking about buying a Capri but life got in the way at the time!

Anyway, a year later and with that out the way I'm thinking again. I have a garage now, in a secure block under the flats, so I can keep it locked away safe when not in use. (This not only has a garage door which I intend to secure with hefty ASSA padlocks left and right, but the main entrance is itself protected with a floor-to-ceiling gate). From advice I got on here I'd also invest in a Disklock for the steering wheel. I've had a look online at things to look out for when buying, but would welcome advice from seasoned members.

First off are there any reccomended places to buy from, would you be put off by a car advertised on ebay for example? With appropriate application of common sense, "if it's too good to be true..." etc.

I'm guessing that bodywork and the amount of rust come high on the list as more difficult to repair than any minor mechanical issues (and also more difficult unless you are a good welder!).

Is it advisable to steer clear of anything with the initial signs of rust in common places, lest you end up with a massive job on your hands 3 years down the line?

Also, I've read conflicting messages about how happy engines are to run on unleaded - presumably depending on the engine and whether it has been changed or modified over the years. Is there an easy way of finding out? Finally, is there anything else to look out for?

(To add another thing into the mix, there has been a proposal come out today from TfL to extend the ULEZ across London in 2020 which would mean that any vehicle between 15-40 years old would have to pay a fine to be used each day... previously this only covered zone 1!. So a 1980 car would be ok, but later models would not.).


I have been umming and arring on this for a while but I know prices are rising and you only live once no?

Many thanks in advance and my apologies for any of these questions sounding foolish.

[Andrew 2.8i]

Hi,
I wouldn't be put off by a car being on Ebay, just exercise common sense and due care when inspecting the car. I would also regularly check carandclassic.co.uk, and some decent cars go through the auction houses these days. ACA is probably the best.

Ideally, it would be best to take a seasoned Capri expert along with you to view the car. Failing that, when you see a car you like the look of, post a link on this forum. I can guarantee you will receive useful observations and opinions.

Good luck with your search,
Andrew.

[pbar]

and you only live once

Exactly And our time here is very limited, you never know when it will be up. We are not in a rehearsal, this is it, and only one go at it. So if you have the urge, just go and do it, whatever it is.

Concerning your unleaded question, many people (including on here) simply just run them on unleaded, and do so for many years (a small adjustment with the timing is usually recommended, to compensate). Engine modification isn't a necessity. You can use additives if you wish (this is down to preference/opinion, some do, some don't). You can have it converted to unleaded if you wish. But if your car shows signs of issues due to this (i.e. valve seat recession), you can have it done then, in the future. However, it may simply run happily on unleaded for as long as you have it. The car you get will have been run on unleaded anyway for some time, so don't worry.

Good luck.

[SmokeEm]

If we had some indication of budget and expectation, we could be of more help.

i.e. Laser, 2.8i etc etc

[tejb1]

Hi guys,

Many thanks for the replies.

If we had some indication of budget and expectation, we could be of more help.

i.e. Laser, 2.8i etc etc

Budget - is £5,000 unrealistic for a decent (non-concourse) example? I could stretch to a little more, especially if it were worth paying more in the long run to avoid bills further down the line.

Preference is probably for something early 80s and maybe a 2.0? (Balance power vs insurance).

Concerning your unleaded question, many people (including on here) simply just run them on unleaded, and do so for many years (a small adjustment with the timing is usually recommended, to compensate). Engine modification isn't a necessity. You can use additives if you wish (this is down to preference/opinion, some do, some don't). You can have it converted to unleaded if you wish. But if your car shows signs of issues due to this (i.e. valve seat recession), you can have it done then, in the future. However, it may simply run happily on unleaded for as long as you have it. The car you get will have been run on unleaded anyway for some time, so don't worry.

Thanks! I guess you're right in that anything which is for sale now will have been run on unleaded as it's what 15 years since 4* ceased to be sold?

[Paul G]

I would have thought £5K would buy you a decent solid 4 cylinder car, especially a 1.6, but be prepared to travel and to walk away if you're not entirely sure.

As far as unleaded is concerned, if you are good enough with the spanners and can take the head off, it should only cost about £100 to get hardened exhaust valve seats fitted at an engineering works; a bit more if valve guides are needed plus the cost of a head gasket set. In addition you would know that the valve stem oil seals and headgasket had been done to give you piece of mind for a few years to come.

More important with modern unleaded with ethanol content is to change all the rubber fuel hoses to ones that meet the standard to allow this to be used safely otherwise the hoses can rot out and leak. I can't offhand remember what the standard is but if you google it you will find out. I know this happens because I had this problem with my old MGB that I've since got rid of.

[SmokeEm]

Currently, 5k should get you a very good 2.0s or Laser model. Even KGF have had cars under 6k before. Just be prepared to walk away as already said as there will be a lot of deluded Laser owners that think their 3k car is worth 5k+

Whilst I don't think you'll find something as good as Nicks Laser, if you are patient, something nearly as good will come along when you least expect it.

[tejb1]

I've been keeping an eye on various websites and seen this on ebay - seller says fine and MOT tester commented on it being in excellent condition, tho MOT record on the DVLC website has various advisories - what would your gut feeling be?

[Paul G]

I believe, but not 100% certain, that this car was advertised a few months ago as a "barn find" and at that time it had rotten A - pillars. If they've been properly mended then fine. Also check that there are no rust bubbles under the vinyl roof and check carefully everywhere up under the wings which is where Capris seem to rust at their worst, as well as inner/outer sills and rear chassis and spring hangers.

Don't be swayed by pretty wheels or the sound system as some novices can be, rust is the no1 priority followed by the condition of the interior, especially on the more rare models.

[Andrew 2.8i]

and MOT tester commented on it being in excellent condition

Hi,
Sounds like seller's hyperbole to me!
Certainly the advisories seem to contradict that statement. The repairs required for the A pillars could be a massive headache.

Andrew.

[tejb1]

and MOT tester commented on it being in excellent condition

Hi,
Sounds like seller's hyperbole to me!
Certainly the advisories seem to contradict that statement. The repairs required for the A pillars could be a massive headache.

Andrew.

Yes, I've been looking at various different adverts, cross-referencing with MOT reports and trying to pick out common things. If the price is low there's probably a reason for it... if it's due for MoT next week and the seller isn't offering it with a new one they obviously aren't confident that it'll pass... and if there's no mention of something (e.g. bodywork) in the ad it's probably in a state!

[Paul G]

I just followed your Idea and looked at the MOT report for that Ghia that you were originally interested in and it would seem by the advisories that the pillars haven't been repaired properly yet. Glad i remembered seeing them rotten when you first posted your interest in the car.

[scottman1962]

Check out the mot history https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/ 7 advisorys

[MS Injection]

There's no substitute for looking at it in the flesh though. Some of the advisories on mine pre-dating my ownership were nonsense once I had it on a ramp and looked. Been through 3 tests since then with a 40 years served tester and he declared them to be nonsense.

[tejb1]

What do seasoned members who know their stuff reckon to this? It is at the higher end of the price range and L spec but looks in good nick. A few notes a few years ago about corrosion in MOT reports, so I guess it would pay to thoroughly check for any more. Not far from me and hoping to go and see it next week.

Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated!

[Peter-S]

Certainly looks clean enough in the pictures. Seems like someone has taken a little time over it. Always need to be a little wary of something too clean & shiny though in case its just been done to sell.

A couple of points:
Have a really good look underneath as that's where the worst rot is likely to be if there is any.

Front bumper end cap looks askew and screw cap missing, bumper very clean too so make sure it hasn't been replaced because of accident damage. There looks to be a dent on the top of the inner wing, driver's side. Probably unrelated but worth inspection.

Recon engine after 64k. Why? Its not a bad thing as such but why was it needed at a relatively low mileage. Check the rest of the running gear carefully.

Front valence seam on drivers side looks like it may have some filler and there also looks like a few rust bubbles on the same side around the headlight. Is more filler/rot present? Try a magnet over it but wrap it in a cloth first.

I would also look closely at the lower sections of body work painted in black. Smacks of covering rust. Might have been repaired well and done that way to avoid blending the paint but have a good look.

[Paul G]

I think you can do a lot better than that one for the price. It looks ripply all down the RH side, pattern wing of not very good quality and the seam between the rear of the sill and the quarter panel is not straight. Also the ripped interior. In my opinion with 30 years motor trade experience it has possibly been dodged up for sale - they haven't even bothered to paint the spare wheel to match the road wheels and if they can't afford a cap for that end cap bolt well at least paint the bolt black!

I'm sure as a car it will be perfectly good, but this one looks better for that sort of money.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Capri-1- ... SwGtRXyYVN

[andyd]

http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C783837
Short MOT Oct 18th 2016, but you could use that to get the price down?
It's never failed on anything major

MOT history of this vehicle

Test date 19 October 2015 Expiry date 18 October 2016 Test Result Pass Odometer reading 84,829 miles MOT test number 4055 3717 1405 Advisory notice item(s)
Brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrules both front (3.6.B.4e)

Test date 19 October 2015 Test Result Fail Odometer reading 84,829 miles MOT test number 3706 8409 2092 Reason(s) for failure
nearside front Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)
offside front Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)
Advisory notice item(s)
Brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrules both front (3.6.B.4e)

Test date 8 October 2014 Expiry date 7 October 2015 Test Result Pass Odometer reading 82,693 miles MOT test number 1054 4168 4207 Advisory notice item(s)
Rear Tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.E.1)
Offside Front Tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.E.1)
Centre Front Exhaust has a minor leak of exhaust gases (7.1.2)

Test date 8 October 2014 Test Result Fail Odometer reading 82,693 miles MOT test number 7974 5108 4238 Reason(s) for failure
Windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively (8.2.2)
Advisory notice item(s)
Rear Tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.E.1)
Offside Front Tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.E.1)
Centre Front Exhaust has a minor leak of exhaust gases (7.1.2)

Test date 12 September 2013 Expiry date 3 October 2014 Test Result Pass Odometer reading 79,484 miles MOT test number 7274 4565 3230 Advisory notice item(s)
Nearside Headlamp deteriorated but light output not reduced (1.7.5a)
Offside Outer Front Anti-roll bar rubber bush deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)
Nearside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
Offside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
slight damage to outside wall of n/s front tyre

Test date 18 September 2012 Expiry date 3 October 2013 Test Result Pass Odometer reading 74,352 miles MOT test number 4991 4216 2264 Advisory notice item(s)
Front Steering system has slight free play detected at steering wheel (2.2.A.1b)
advice front brake pipe rusted
Oil leak
advice n/s head lamp dim

Test date 17 September 2012 Test Result Fail Odometer reading 74,333 miles MOT test number 4962 3186 2250 Reason(s) for failure
Nearside Front Steering rack gaiter split (2.2.D.2d)
Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content excessive (7.3.B.1a)
Front Headlamp aim too high (1.8)
Rear Brake pipe excessively corroded (3.6.B.2c)
Nearside Rear Fluid suspension unit totally deflated (2.4.D.1a)
Offside Rear Fluid suspension unit totally deflated (2.4.D.1a)
Nearside Front Front wheel bearing rough when rotated (2.5.A.2)
Advisory notice item(s)
Steering system has slight free play detected at steering wheel (2.2.A.1b)
Nearside Rear Front wheel bearing has slight play (2.5.A.3c)
advice head lamp beam dim
Oil leak
advice n/s and o/s front brake pipes rusted

Test date 3 October 2011 Expiry date 3 October 2012 Test Result Pass Odometer reading 69,496 miles MOT test number 3856 8657 1287

Test date 27 September 2010 Expiry date 3 October 2011 Test Result Pass Odometer reading 67,953 miles MOT test number 9900 1047 0251

Test date 2 October 2009 Expiry date 3 October 2010 Test Result Pass Odometer reading 64,798 miles MOT test number 2319 3537 9248 Advisory notice item(s)
Rear Exhaust has part of the system slightly deteriorated (7.1.1a)

Test date 3 October 2008 Expiry date 3 October 2009 Test Result Pass Odometer reading 61,071 miles MOT test number 3144 9787 8416 Advisory notice item(s)
Front Brake pad(s) wearing thin (3.5.1g)
Exhaust has part of the system slightly deteriorated (7.1.1a)
Rear Tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.E.1)

Test date 4 October 2007 Expiry date 3 October 2008 Test Result Pass Odometer reading 58,273 miles MOT test number 8243 9777 7273

Test date 3 October 2007 Test Result Fail Odometer reading 58,273 miles MOT test number 6102 2617 7268 Reason(s) for failure
Front Windscreen washer provides insufficient washer liquid (8.2.3)

Test date 21 August 2006 Expiry date 15 September 2007 Test Result Pass Odometer reading 54,115 miles MOT test number 3648 4333 6233

Test date 16 September 2005 Expiry date 15 September 2006 Test Result Pass Odometer reading 53,751 miles MOT test number 5944 9955 5238

[D366Y]

I agree with everything the other guys have mentioned, but no-one seems to have flagged the price... Granted it does look quite lovely, but looking at what else is just on eBay at the moment, I'd save myself a few thousand and have a look at some of these instead?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1986-Ford-Cap ... Swr0ZXN~OD

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1983-Ford-Cap ... SwOdpXyZbq

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Capri-2- ... SwHoFXuXIC

I've not researched them all and looked through previous MOT etc but the amount of money I'd be saving compared to your original suggestion I would imagine one would use improving anything that wasn't quite up to scratch?

Just a thought....
Danny

[tejb1]

Thanks all for the replies - sorry I've been a bit busy this week and haven't had a chance to check back. Many thanks for all the questions and things to look out for.