Starting issues

[Stewb28i]

The binging noise is the accumulator doing it's job so the fault most likely is elsewhere.

There is (or should be) a 1 way valve on the output of the fuel pump, it's contained within the fitting screwed into the pump (which the cap nut screws onto). This should stop fuel going back through the pump. Easy to check. I had a brand new pump which had a piece of swarf stuck inside the valve which allowed the pressure to bleed off.

The other valve is part of the main system pressure valve in the metering head itself. The pressure control valve has the main plunger & spring with the system pressure being adjusted with shims. The back part of the threaded sleeve which you remove to adjust the fuel pressure has a 1 way valve which stops the system leaking down via the warm up reg itself. As the warm up reg has a connection to both the pressure side of the system & the return side without the 1 way valve there is a direct path. This can be checked by taking the assembly out & check that the 'o' rings are perfect. If they aren't completely perfect then this will allow fuel past & the system to drain back. They are easy to damage when refitting the valve assembly as they have to be pushed past the threaded portion of the valve pocket in the metering head against the preload for the main pressure control spring.

Stew.

[MattMe]

Is there somewhere you can purchase the non-return valves for the fuel pumps? I need a new one on mine but after searching for a bit never actually found one.

The valve you're talking about in the metering head I've never actually played with yet as mine is sitting just under 6 bar when running, but just out of interest would you mind explaining where the o rings are you mention? I can't picture them even though I've had mine off the car recently.

(sorry for the thread hijack)

[Peter-S]

Is there somewhere you can purchase the non-return valves for the fuel pumps? I need a new one on mine but after searching for a bit never actually found one.

The valve you're talking about in the metering head I've never actually played with yet as mine is sitting just under 6 bar when running, but just out of interest would you mind explaining where the o rings are you mention? I can't picture them even though I've had mine off the car recently.

(sorry for the thread hijack)

On the metering head front right corner at the bottom as you look into the engine there is a large nut. If you undo this the shims, spring and O rings that Stew mentions are all on the spindle that comes out with the nut.

[Andrew 2.8i]

On the metering head front right corner at the bottom as you look into the engine there is a large nut. If you undo this the shims, spring and O rings that Stew mentions are all on the spindle that comes out with the nut.

Hi All,
Would anybody happen to know if it's safe to do this without damaging anything? Or is it a case of "if it ain't broke"?....

Andrew.

[Stewb28i]

Burton Power do the valves - just search '1 way valve' on their website.

There's a pic of the main pressure plunger & associated bits here : http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=225119

There's an o ring on the plunger & the body of the threaded capnut, damage to either can result in leakdown issues.

Having a look won't do any harm but you do risk damaging the seals during reassembly!

Stew.

[Peter-S]

On the metering head front right corner at the bottom as you look into the engine there is a large nut. If you undo this the shims, spring and O rings that Stew mentions are all on the spindle that comes out with the nut.

Hi All,
Would anybody happen to know if it's safe to do this without damaging anything? Or is it a case of "if it ain't broke"?....

Andrew.

If it's running fine as is I'm not sure why you would want to take it apart Andrew but it's easy enough to dismantle if you feel the need but it will leak some petrol.

[capri28]

I also own another 2.8 capri that starts on the button with no cold/hot start problems & it has never had a 'binging' noise...?

Whereas my other capri in question does it all the time when i turn it off

[Peter-S]

I also own another 2.8 capri that starts on the button with no cold/hot start problems & it has never had a 'binging' noise...?

Whereas my other capri in question does it all the time when i turn it off

That kind of suggests a fuel leak - presumably no visual signs that is happening though?

[capri28]

There is no fuel leak, the car is in my garage for the winter & there are no wet patches on the floor & certainly no smell...

[sheff]

There is no fuel leak, the car is in my garage for the winter & there are no wet patches on the floor & certainly no smell...

Are you sure you don't have a leaking injector?

[capri28]

There is no fuel leak, the car is in my garage for the winter & there are no wet patches on the floor & certainly no smell...

Are you sure you don't have a leaking injector?

if we are talking about the red 2.8 then not that i know of... i changed the injectors with supposedly good second hand ones, i can't justify the £45 each new if it doesn't cure the fault

... so i need not bother with a fuel accumulator??

[sheff]

There is no fuel leak, the car is in my garage for the winter & there are no wet patches on the floor & certainly no smell...

Are you sure you don't have a leaking injector?

if we are talking about the red 2.8 then not that i know of... i changed the injectors with supposedly good second hand ones, i can't justify the £45 each new if it doesn't cure the fault

... so i need not bother with a fuel accumulator??

I changed my accumulator as it didn't start well from warm...... This cured the warm start issue.
Mine doesn't start perfectly from cold, which I have put down to one or more injectors leaking slightly. Like you say at £45 each its a long shot at curing the problem and personally I can live with turning the ignition key twice

[capri28]

I wish mine would start on the second turn!.. i'd be well happy!!

...Like i've said if it doesn't start on the 4 or 5th turn i have to leave it.


I would love to get this issue sorted its really pi$$ing me off

[Peter-S]

she'll fire & cut out instantly & from there she is an absolute pig to get going,

I did have a very similar symptom a week or so back after I'd been tinkering and it turned out to be loose connections on the pink relay. A bit of crimping of connectors and all was fine again. The trouble is every time you try to start a load of fuel is sprayed in and then it floods.
Anyway, might be worth re checking all connections around the relay.

[capri28]

she'll fire & cut out instantly & from there she is an absolute pig to get going,

I did have a very similar symptom a week or so back after I'd been tinkering and it turned out to be loose connections on the pink relay. A bit of crimping of connectors and all was fine again. The trouble is every time you try to start a load of fuel is sprayed in and then it floods.
Anyway, might be worth re checking all connections around the relay.

I'll certenly give that go...thanks

[Stewb28i]

The ideal way to check what's going on is to monitor system pressure at shutdown. The system should hold residual pressure - if not then you have an issue.

A leaky injector won't normally cause a whole system 'drain down' like a 1 way valve failure which I explained in my previous post, it will normally cause the affected injector + pipe to drain down which will then give a misfire following a restart once started. The engine will generally 'catch' fairly readily in this case & rev up but be down on a cylinder or two.

If the whole system drains down then the whole system has to be reprimed which normally involves several start attempts (as the engine will flare on the cold start injector) but won't stay running until the metering head & lines have reprimed. You can also have a misfire once the engine catches as you get vapour locks in the injector lines.

Stew.