Tappity engine

[Arya2.0S]

My engine is quite tappety, not terrible but is there anything (short of a full blown rebuild) i can do to reduce the noise a little?
Its got the right kind of oil in it already (hasnt been changed for a while though), was wondering if there's a better kind that can reduce the tappety noise a bit, or maybe some sort of additive that wont gunk everything up and do long term damage?

Its a 2.0 pinto, mid-range mileage so i understand it wont ever sound perfect but was wondering if there's anything out there that can help for now.

Thanks.

[chris_v888]

try fitting a new spray bar the one that goes over cam and ajust tapits if this dont work new cam and followers or if you just want to sell it you could na sorry carnt tell you that one??? hope this helps

[Swishy]

First thing - cam cover off and crank the engine with king lead removed - check there's oil coming from each of the spray bar holes to each follower.

If there isn't then there's a problem - or as stated - fit a new spray bar (check it as well) for piece of mind and check the clearances/look for wear anyway.

[Arya2.0S]

Sorry, whats a "king lead"?

[stevemarl]

It`s the h.t. lead from the middle of the distributor cap to the coil. Removing will just stop engine firing and throwing oil everywhere.

[pbar]

Removing will just stop engine firing and throwing oil everywhere.

One thing I've wondered with this method (as I've never done it), do you still need to expect a splattering of oil everywhere from the spray bar etc. as you test it? Is it a case of covering everything and everyone with sheets, or will it be nice and 'polite'.

[Swishy]

Really quite a tidy method - remember it's only a short spin over at cranking speed - just enough to see a steady trail of oil flow from the spray bar holes.

[jimmyted]

Yea I’d agree with the comments above. The only thing you can do relatively easily is check the spray bar is working as it should, and then check the valve clearances. Adjust if they need doing. Pintos are kinda known for being a bit rattly though! I did a few vids earlier this year, check em out if you’re struggling

Valve Clearances

https://youtu.be/RJV672Yzflk

Spray Bar

https://youtu.be/gAfCnwD7lVc

[pbar]

Thanks for the info guys. And for the videos Jimmy. One thing missing from a lot of these classic car programmes is a how to spot, a mechanical section, etc. You could be that man!

[paulusvrotius1]

If I may add, you mentioned the oil has not been changed for a while, this is not good for the Pinto spray bar. It is mostly poor servicing that causes the spray bar to clog in the first place. Mind you any engine likes clean oil.

[Fordoholic Nick]

Pintos are kinda known for being a bit rattly though! I did a few vids earlier this year, check em out if you’re struggling

Hi Jimmy,

Those videos you posted are really helpful mate. Extremely informative. Nice one

All the best now

Nick

[340truck]

If a pinto don't rattle, it ain't running right! Plus, I always set the clearances a smidgeon loose, then if it stops rattling the clearances are closing up - means VSR has started. Simples

[Fordoholic Nick]

If a pinto don't rattle, it ain't running right! Plus, I always set the clearances a smidgeon loose, then if it stops rattling the clearances are closing up - means VSR has started. Simples

Sorry but whats VSR. Something to do with the valves I am presuming ?

[stevemarl]

Valve Seat Recession: the cast iron valve seats are `comparatively` soft and will wear away without the lead which used to act as a barrier. As the seats wear away, the valve head sinks lower into the cylinder head thus causing the stem to stick out further and close the gap between stem & cam. Thus it becomes MORE quiet.

[Fordoholic Nick]

Valve Seat Recession: the cast iron valve seats are `comparatively` soft and will wear away without the lead which used to act as a barrier. As the seats wear away, the valve head sinks lower into the cylinder head thus causing the stem to stick out further and close the gap between stem & cam. Thus it becomes MORE quiet.

Thanks for explaining this Steve.

[Mc Tool]

Yes , my valve ( exhaust ) clearance was disappearing at the rate of about 5 thou every thousand miles ( new motor ) so I starts using valvemaster again and havn't had to touch them for 5000 miles . I have been fussy about correct valve clearance as I have discovered the ole pinto is a bit fussy ( compared to some motors I have fiddled with ). When I was having issues with poor idle the NZ weber guru recommended setting them at 11 and 9 thou ( ex and in ) , and he was pretty sure that it would help ..... it didn't ... but the fuel soaked carb float made sure nothing else was going to fix the issue , anyhow , I find the pinto motor , with a new cam and followers , spray bar and cam bearings , to be a bit clattery in the valve dept , especially when cold . I use full synthetic oil, with a zinc additive .... which I believe is good for pinto cams . As long as all the valves are ratteling the same ( like not just 1 or 2 loose ones ) and your sure the clearances are correct I wouldn't loose any sleep over it . Cam / follower damage is usually obvious , but you can still shut them up when damaged

[jimmyted]

Hi Jimmy,

Those videos you posted are really helpful mate. Extremely informative. Nice one

All the best now

Nick

for the videos Jimmy. One thing missing from a lot of these classic car programmes is a how to spot, a mechanical section, etc. You could be that man!

Thanks guys! ha ha, I'm not sure about that pbar, but yea, I try to be thorough - one thing I think is sadly missing from a lot of online 'how to' videos. There's more capri related stuff over there on the channel if anyone's interested.

As for the VSR issue, I've never suffered with it, but then again I do use additives for the most part. It's not a daily driver so it doesn't cost me a fortune to use it, plus I view it as valuable insurance for an engine that, to this date, has got quite a few of my pennies in! But as mentioned earlier, this will cause exhaust clearances to close up, and actually make the top end quieter.. all good until the valve never fully seats and you loose bucket loads of compression!

[stevemarl]

so I starts using valvemaster again and havn't had to touch them for 5000 miles .

yep, I`ve also been using Valvemaster since 4* was phased out and I`ve never had to adjust valves in that time, so I`m quite happy to keep using it.

[pbar]

yep, I`ve also been using Valvemaster since 4* was phased out and I`ve never had to adjust valves in that time, so I`m quite happy to keep using it.

That's a good advertisement for using it that is Steve. Although I don't, I have often wondered about it. Couple of questions if you don't mind, are you using normal Valvemaster or the plus. And is that with normal unleaded. Also, any adjustment on timing required if it's used, or not?

[jimmyted]

Just to jump the gun on Steve a little bit, but I’ll be interested to see what he has to say on the subject.

I use the normal stuff, because I just can’t fathom how a thimble full of additive can increase a full tank of petrol by 2 RON, or whatever it claims.

If you want a similar octane to 4 star, fill up with premium unleaded would be my advice.

Then in theory yes, I guess you could put a few more degrees of ignition advance in. Higher octane fuel is more stable in extreme conditions, and won’t tend to ‘ping’ as bad. Although I doubt it’d make a noticeable difference on anything but high performance engines, turbos etc.