carb problem

[dan the capri fan]

my weber 32/36 is playing up again its the new second hand one that keeps playing up. the first thing that went wrong was i didnt set the mixture for it to run nice on my 1.6 so i set it correctly i had it running perfectly for ages but then on a trip to a capri thing in leicester it starts running like shit again. the revs drop and it cuts out on idle or runs really lumpy on low revs and the back box bangs off the rear leaf spring. so we got it back on a tow truck and i set the mixture just right again took it round the block then the same thing happens. i dont know what else to do please help. its got a fuel filter on it and has had redex through it not so long ago. could it be that ive been running it without an air filter because it wouldn't fit back on.

[stevemarl]

It could equally be the ignition, check point gap, distributor cap, timing etc etc

[Beakster]

It does a bit like its got some crap in it. Check the internal filter. Under the big (19 or 17mm) brass nut under the inlet and outlet pipes. Maybe that needs cleaned out. Also as above I'd check the points gap too and make sure they are in good condition.

[pbar]

Does that carb filter need looking at often? It's just that you don't hear it being mentioned much.

[stevemarl]

TBH, I think it`s quite a coarse mesh filter, more of a last resort that would stop the bigger lumps of crap from your 30 year old tank.... Certainly if you have an inline filter `upstream` that will catch much finer sediment so nothing should get to the carb.

[stevemarl]

Mr pbar`s found some help for you:-

http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/561-guide ... dgav-carb/

[340truck]

If the problem affects DRIVING such that you needed to have it brought home on a tow truck then it will not be a problem with the mixture - this only affects idling.
If you have a problem when driving then it could be a blocked jet or filter and/or incorrect float level.
However, this is more likely to be an ignition problem as already mentioned ......plugs/points/coil/timing (static or vacuum/mechanical advance).

[dan the capri fan]

its just on idle it happens and thanks for that step by step guide on how to strip a weber 32/36 thats going to prove very useful when i come to fix my carbs problem first im buying a K&N air filter and putting that on to see if it fixes the problem because it didnt have an air filter on so it was messing up the fuel to air ratio by sucking in too much air. also the problem only happens when the cars warmed up and the chokes off.

[stevemarl]

it didnt have an air filter on so it was messing up the fuel to air ratio by sucking in too much air

At idle?????? So a filter`s going to stop it sucking so much air in?
Look -

i had it running perfectly for ages

. So if it was running OK `for ages` then it obviously wasn`t the lack of air cleaner was it? Unless it`s inhaled a small bird, something else has changed, and that is where you will find your fault.

[dan the capri fan]

it does sound a bit far fetched your right steve im going on what the breakdown guy said what was wrong with it. im going to buy a weber 32/36 service kit off ebay and ill get some carb cleaner and by following this really handy step by step guide i will strip it, clean it replace seals, filter etc then rebuild it. hopefully that cures the problem. would it be a good idea to buy new jets as well?

[stevemarl]

Don`t buy new jets, if the old ones worked before, they`ll work again. Just don`t poke them with wire to `clean` them, use nylon.

[Swishy]

Don't go fitting a free flow K & N just yet - winter is here and next thing you'll be getting icing problems along with anything/everything else.

Best just pop in a standard paper job (or even a free flow element - if you can find one) and make sure the running troubles are sorted first. Or was it that you just couldn't get your air filter housing back on?

[pbar]

In addition to that walkthrough, here is an excellent breakdown diagram of the carb parts. I think these may have been posted before, although this one is very clear.

http://www.carburetion.com/diags/3236DGAVDiaginfo.asp

[stevemarl]

I`m guessing he`s gone from a VV to a DGAV & didn`t have filter housing to match??
You`re right though - he`d be best getting a 2.0 sierra airbox (with the thermostatic temp. device) OR any old one with an intake you can point at the exhaust, due to icing risk.
You can get K&N elements for std airboxes which work well and are washable. (But, of course,
look standard not blingey....)

edit: I just thought - the original problem couldn`t have been icing up could it???

[Ghia15]

The first thing I changed on my capri was the air filter to a K&N and then ran it for two years including the winter.

Never had a problem with carb Icing myself but my mate had Icing on his 32/36 on the side of a 1300 Xflow in his MK2 escort during the winter time.

Might be worth getting a std air box for the carb so if it is a problem you could pop it on and not worry about it.

Best thing to do is rebuild the carb, don't worry about the jets as they will clean out.

Had blocked jets back in 2008, rebuilt the carb with a rebuild kit and aerosol carb cleaner and it was problem solved, I didn't poke anything down any of the jets, I just used the pressure of the cleaner to force the muck out and dissolve the smaller particles.

Get a good inline filter for the the car to go between pump and carb, had one on mine since then and even when I stupidly ran out of fuel the carb has never got clogged with dirt again.

all the best

[dan the capri fan]

ok ill recondition the carb being as prior to putting it on the car i dont think it had been used in years being as i got it from an auto jumble its the best second hand carb ive seen in a auto jumble looks in good nick. can someone tell me what iceing up means because ive never heard of that term before. steve i swapped the carb from a 32/36 to another 32/36 because the old one the choke didnt work and it leaked water from the choke housing. the air filter ive got at the moment is a standard 2.0 square air box which fitted on the old carb fine but it seem the 2 long bolts are a therd size to big for the new carb thats why it wont go on.

[stevemarl]

`Iceing up` is where the air temp is near zero & the relative humidity (dampness) of the air is high. The change in speed of the air/ partial vacuum as it passes through the carb venturi, combined with the vaporisation of the fuel, causes the temp around the butterfly valve to get low enough that the water in the air condenses out and freezes, clogging the carb. That`s why there`s a heated air duct for winter conditions.

[Ghia15]

Couldn't have put it better myself.

If you ever have an unknown carb it is always best to recondition it, I made the mistake of not doing it once and had no end of grief. Spent the morning rebuilding and cleaning and all was good.

It is an easy/cheap way to ensure the carb is good, as you can inspect it during the rebuild, and to ensure that it will work to its best for the condition it is in.

Took me about an hour first time I did it and that was in a field with beakster at santa pod, just make sure the springs go back in the correct way as I made an error on the LOVE spring and it was a pain to drive. lol

All the best