Rear Brakes

[STEVE SB]

my nearside hand brake sticks on so need to strip it to loosen everything up and copper grease.
How ever. I can't get the drum off. I have loosened the connecting rods. pushed the lever in which slackens the shoes off, but try as i might i can't pull the drum off. I have pulled then pushed back, loads of times still no joy, the shoes are catching on the lip of the drum. Any advice would be good.

[pbar]

Silly question, but I assume the handbrake is off! Though it won't make much difference if it is sticking. Have you tried tapping the drum around the outside edge, with a wooden mallet or wooden block. Don't just use a normal hammer. Or, use a wedge shaped piece of wood inbetween the gap between the drum and backplate and hammer that, to prise the two away from each other, I have seen that done before.

[nigecapri]

Remove the clevis pins and take the rod/cable off completely and also squeeze out the pins that hold the plastic spacer blocks and remove them. Then try a medium weight hammer to tap the arms back to the backplates bearing in mind the direction that the arm should pivot in if it was loose. You might need to spray or trickle some WD40 along the top or the arms so that it runs into the pivot area if they're stubborn and leave it overnight.
If there are any threads in the small hole in the face of each drum you could try winding in a suitable bolt against the hub flange to move it a bit but this could twist the drum at an angle so use a copper/nylon/wood hammer to help it, or get mean and use a ballpein.

[STEVE SB]

Hi guys thanks.
pretty much done that. the hand brake arm is touching the back plate so am assuming the shoes are well and trully adjusted up and i must have quite a large lip on the drum.
I have tried hitting the preverbial out of them, no joy. Also used 2 small crow bars 1@ 3o'clock 1 @ 9 and still no joy. gave it a good squirt of WD last night so will go and give it a go when the hour is more respectable for the neighbours.

[gilley576]

A few swift blows with a nylon hammer should loosen them off, failing that a 3-legged puller would be your best bet. Spraying them with WD-40 means you run the risk of the friction material expanding.

[STEVE SB]

Got the drums off. possibly not the ridge on the edge of the drum, there are 2 grooves running round the drum and the shoes have adopted this shape, so I assume the ridges created on the shoes were stuck in the grooves. the reason the shoes wouldn't slacken of was 2 fold, handbrake mechanism stuck, and cylinder seized. all sorted now.
cheers.

[340truck]

You will, of course, replace the drum?

[STEVE SB]

Why? the two groves are manufactured in the drum they are not score marks from a foriegn body.

[340truck]

Why? the two groves are manufactured in the drum they are not score marks from a foriegn body.

Never seen a drum with 2 grooves "manufactured"! They are usually caused by the rivets holding the linings to the shoes, when the linings have worn beyond the limits (probably the last set of shoes before the ones on there now). Braking surface on the inside of the drums should be smooth, no grooves.

[Peter-S]

Why? the two groves are manufactured in the drum they are not score marks from a foriegn body.

Never seen a drum with 2 grooves "manufactured"! They are usually caused by the rivets holding the linings to the shoes, when the linings have worn beyond the limits (probably the last set of shoes before the ones on there now). Braking surface on the inside of the drums should be smooth, no grooves.

Indeed. I have a couple of sets of unused 2.8 drums at present and certainly no grooves in them

[Matty2148]

I`ve seen grooved drums! Some engineering place in the midlands did it then sold them on ebay a few yrs ago, I`ll see if I can dig a pic out, by the way, completely useless and a total gimmic.

[STEVE SB]

Pretty irrelevant now as have decided that I am going to uprate the whole system and do a rear conversion. already sourcing the parts.