I realise this is a Laser page but it seems the best around for Capri info, so here goes.
I've decided to buy my dream car, a 2.8i Special and have started surveying local ads/autotrader etc etc, but I have little mechanical knowledge. Can anyone give me a list of Things-To-Look-Out-For-When-Buying-A-Capri? I'm looking for a late (1986+) model with low mileage in good nick.
2.8i Buying Tips
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Mark 280
what to look for!
Heres a list of the main things to look for when buying a capri (any model)
check inner wings for rot espesially under wing rails,
take a torch to check chassis ,pay attention to the rear spring hangers an each side of the fuel tank(esp 2.8s)
look inside the rear wheel arches(where the sill ends )
look at the doors near the hinges
Check headlamp bowls( these are difficult to see but its worth the trouble)
These are the most common places to find rot,dont be afraid to give anything you find a good poke,if its rotton and you have to pay to have it welded it could be very expensive!
Other things to look out for are just common sense really i.e
Smoking engine,low oil pressure,milky deposits around oil filler cap,any rattles or bangs,brake pipes not corroded(check the metal one that runs across the back axle,replacing this may not seem like much ,but bugger the rear wheel cylinders up when bleeding system and it gets costly!)
Play in steering,oil leaks ect.
I could list many things but I think I've covered the main ones,Hope it helps ,Mark;O)
check inner wings for rot espesially under wing rails,
take a torch to check chassis ,pay attention to the rear spring hangers an each side of the fuel tank(esp 2.8s)
look inside the rear wheel arches(where the sill ends )
look at the doors near the hinges
Check headlamp bowls( these are difficult to see but its worth the trouble)
These are the most common places to find rot,dont be afraid to give anything you find a good poke,if its rotton and you have to pay to have it welded it could be very expensive!
Other things to look out for are just common sense really i.e
Smoking engine,low oil pressure,milky deposits around oil filler cap,any rattles or bangs,brake pipes not corroded(check the metal one that runs across the back axle,replacing this may not seem like much ,but bugger the rear wheel cylinders up when bleeding system and it gets costly!)
Play in steering,oil leaks ect.
I could list many things but I think I've covered the main ones,Hope it helps ,Mark;O)
-
Noel
bodywork
Buy on bodywork condition first - that is by far the most expensive thing to repair.
With a 2.8i make sure the injection system works properly - ie it starts and warms up nicely. That's the second most expensive thing to repair.
Don't go near an engine with even the slighest smoking either - it takes a lot of thrashing and neglect to knacker out the V6!
Make sure the interior is all in one piece. You will have to expect a bit of wear on the seat squabs - nothing you can do about that.#
Finally, worry about other mechanicals, I know this may sound daft, but things like brakes, gearbox, clutch, axle and suspension all have the complexity of a knife and fork and hence are simple and relatively cheap to maintain.
What I mean is - if you find one with a completely rust and filler free body, but it has a groaning and rumbling axle, then still buy it, because the axle will be simple to sort out.
With a 2.8i make sure the injection system works properly - ie it starts and warms up nicely. That's the second most expensive thing to repair.
Don't go near an engine with even the slighest smoking either - it takes a lot of thrashing and neglect to knacker out the V6!
Make sure the interior is all in one piece. You will have to expect a bit of wear on the seat squabs - nothing you can do about that.#
Finally, worry about other mechanicals, I know this may sound daft, but things like brakes, gearbox, clutch, axle and suspension all have the complexity of a knife and fork and hence are simple and relatively cheap to maintain.
What I mean is - if you find one with a completely rust and filler free body, but it has a groaning and rumbling axle, then still buy it, because the axle will be simple to sort out.
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guitarswet
- Posts: 334
- Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2008 8:23 pm
Just bear in mind that
the limited slip differential can be very expensive to repair. I would budget £500 to get it reconditioned properly. Try driving the car slowly in very tight circles to listen for a moaning and groaning LSD. They are not as reliable as the Sailsbury types fitted to 1.6 and 2.0 Capris.