Can someone let me know,if Piston One is in TDC what position should the inlet and outlet valves be in? also where should the rotor arm be pointing? this is on a 2l pinto, and has anyone any bright ideas as to why when i break the steering wheel trying to shake free, new disks and pads were fitted before i bought,and new front wheel bearings!! i`m at a loss with that one, its only when it traveling at 60MPH +
Thanks in advance
Cam and piston position
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reaper28i
Answers (possibly)
Ok. If piston 1 is at TDC then BOTH inlet and exhaust valves should be shut for setting up cam timing. If one or the other is open then another turn of the crank should put them right, assuming the cam and timing chain (belt) are connected and installed 
The rotor arm (I'm guessing now!) should be just beyond the number one position (on its way to the next cylinder) in the dizzy because the spark is delivered so many degrees BEFORE TDC. If the piston is at TDC then the rotor arm has already allowed the spark to happen.
Regarding steering wobble. You've got new pads etc, but you might need to have the wheels balanced too. You could also check any nuts and bolts in the suspension (TCA, steering rack etc.) aren't loose.Go Bodie, Go Doyle!
The rotor arm (I'm guessing now!) should be just beyond the number one position (on its way to the next cylinder) in the dizzy because the spark is delivered so many degrees BEFORE TDC. If the piston is at TDC then the rotor arm has already allowed the spark to happen.
Regarding steering wobble. You've got new pads etc, but you might need to have the wheels balanced too. You could also check any nuts and bolts in the suspension (TCA, steering rack etc.) aren't loose.Go Bodie, Go Doyle!
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guitarswet
- Posts: 334
- Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2008 8:23 pm
A few suggestions
if you have big problems with steering shake when braking then it is worth checking the track rod ends. They are only about 6 each and easy to replace. I think you will find the procedure in my work section. If the steering rack itself is worn then you will again get the shakes. This is a bit harder to replace but again the procedure is in my work section.
When number 1 piston is at top dead centre then both the valves are shut. You can check this easily because both cams will be pointing upwards (in a v-shape). If they are not then you are in trouble and need to take off the timing belt and rotate the camshaft until the pointer matches the dot. There is a pointer on the crankshaft pully as well and this should also be aligned. Remember that the crankshaft pully goes round twice for every time the cam shaft goes round so double check everything very carefully. The distributor is the one that can adjust relative to the belt. At top dead centre the pointer should be pointing towards the small groove on the rim of the distributor (where the cap sits). That is what it is there for. Always rotate the engine clockwise and go round several times to convince yourself that everything is in the right position. The final location of the distributor has to be done with a strobe when the engine is running.
When number 1 piston is at top dead centre then both the valves are shut. You can check this easily because both cams will be pointing upwards (in a v-shape). If they are not then you are in trouble and need to take off the timing belt and rotate the camshaft until the pointer matches the dot. There is a pointer on the crankshaft pully as well and this should also be aligned. Remember that the crankshaft pully goes round twice for every time the cam shaft goes round so double check everything very carefully. The distributor is the one that can adjust relative to the belt. At top dead centre the pointer should be pointing towards the small groove on the rim of the distributor (where the cap sits). That is what it is there for. Always rotate the engine clockwise and go round several times to convince yourself that everything is in the right position. The final location of the distributor has to be done with a strobe when the engine is running.