ok Megajolt problems...

[Supercharged Nat]

ive got the edis part installed and tried to fire her up, after about 3-4 secs of cranking i get a pop that slows the starter down (guessing a back fire), so this mean the timing could well be out- alot.

can dodgy components cause this, like a buggered sensor or edis modual?

"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
"Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car.
"Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence.
"Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.

[Beakster]

No idea, sorry. Might be a question for the MJLJ forum on the autosportlabs site.

I just need to mount my trigger wheel, but gonna have to take radiator out so I can get puller in at the pulley.

Good luck

[capri_turbo]

check and double check for correct positioning of Vr sensor in relation to missing tooth when engine is at TDC.

With engine at TDC, the missing tooth should be 90 degrees clockwise from the sensor.

A Capri is for life... NOT just for Christmas

[Supercharged Nat]

double checked guys its correct. someone on the autosports site said about 180 degrees out thing, but i didnt think that was possible with the edis and coil pack setup?

im begining to think dodgy components, either vr sensor or edis, or coil pack or any combination of the 3.

"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
"Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car.
"Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence.
"Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.

[Beakster]

...you said you didnt think it was possilbe to be ut by 180 degrees?

My understanding is that the crank wheel rotates 2 times for a full suck squeeze bank blow from cylinder 1. You need to make sure its at TDC for cyl1 when cly is compressing. So by taking out the spark plug and feeling for the air coming out as it reaches TDC. There will be a time when the pulley mark is at TDC but cyl 1 is not compressing. If you have taken this as TDC for cly 1 then it will be 180 degrees out.

[Beakster]

actually reading that back has made me realise I must be talking rubbish as it will be in the same position relative to the missing tooth regardless of whether its the 1st or 2nd revolution in the cycle.

[Supercharged Nat]

that theory works with a dizzy because the dizzy turns at half the crank shaft speed, but the crank will always have its tdc position, granted there are two of them in a full '4 cylinder cycle' but the tdc will always be the same.

so setting the trigger wheel and sensor with the crank at tdc will be the same, as number one piston will always be at the top of the cylinder. which part of the cycle its on shouldnt matter.

just to be clear though, when i set it all up, i did have the crank and cam shaft @ tdc.

hope that makes sense?

"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
"Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car.
"Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence.
"Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.

[Supercharged Nat]

doh. so im at a loss at the moment.
thanks though

"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
"Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car.
"Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence.
"Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.

[Supercharged Nat]

what the air gap for the trigger wheel and sensor? im at about 2-3mm atm


"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
"Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car.
"Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence.
"Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.

[Beakster]

That makes sense I understand now it doesn't matter.

Here's another idea. Try reversing the wires on the VR sensor. The polarity on this makes a difference and it won't work the wrong way. Unless you noted the polarity in relation to the wiring from the car you took it from, you could have it wrong.

Also are you sure the +12V feed you have used is 12V during cranking?

[Beakster]

I read a post by Nige on the autosportlabs forum where he said 1.4mm I think.

I had a look at the sensor on my 24v engine and it looks very close, e.g. less than a milimeter from what I can see.

I bought a new VR sensor and it has a really strong magnet which picks up screws. The old VR sensor that I got from the sierra was really weak, so I'm guessing that if you have an old sensor it needs to be closer.

[Supercharged Nat]

ive checked the feed and its ok (same one i used for the original coil anyway).

the polarity of the sensor wires are the same as taken off the car. so im 99% their correct


"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
"Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car.
"Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence.
"Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.

[Beakster]

You got the HT leads going to the correct plugs?

Also might be worth checking for continuity between adjacent pins on the EDIS plug just in case there is a short circuit in the plug from when you rebuilt it.

Other than that I'm out of ideas, so might be a faulty component as you said.

[Supercharged Nat]

moved lead 1 to 3
2-1
3-4
4-2

how that works is beyond me, i think it has basically swapped the coil A and coil B wires with each other. (although i have followed the auto sports diagram exactly- wonder if its wrong?)

but she fire straight up! thanks for your help beak!

"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
"Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car.
"Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence.
"Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.

[Beakster]

nice one! Glad you got it sorted, although gutted you beat me to it lol . Fingers crossed mine will be all done tomorrow.

Look forward to hearing how you find it runs on the MJ compared to the dizzy.

[nigecapri]

I had the same with my set-up when I first tried to run it. POP,,,,,BANG....POP
I turned the toothed wheel 180 degrees so the gap was before the sensor rather then after and it started first go. Swapping HT leads would probably have had the same effect like yours, who knows what's going on in there???

[Supercharged Nat]

i had a reply from brent saying how the coil A and Coil B wires were wrong on his diagram. i think i was foloowing the old diagram, but its been updated now so all should be good.

Nige it sounds like you had the same prob as me and you turning the wheel 180 degrees is another way of solving the problem?

"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
"Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car.
"Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence.
"Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.