The Ford Capri Laser Page

Strange spunk like substance under oil cap

Maybe its, er, fuc*ed......?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Supercharged-Ford-Pinto-Engine-/221202306228?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3380af54b4 Wow, - that`s some installation!! Bit of a problem fitting it to an actual vehicle as the charger would be blocking view of road.... There`s a young chappie called Crai...

Won`t be spigot bearing as when the clutch is engaged it`s not turning: it only turns when the input shaft is NOT locked to the flywheel by the clutch, i.e. when you`ve got the pedal down.

Suppose it could be the c lutch release bearing that`s dried up??

I may be wrong but I thought the pinto was introduced with the facelift? Could it have been fitted as a replacement at some point?

You won`t feel any difference between DOT4/ DOT5. Just keep it changed every few years as it absorbs moisture. Beware silicone based fluid though, which is more compressible and I found gave a spongey pedal & more travel. Theoretically never needs changing but actually caused some swelling of se...

It seems the point at which vehicles become tax exempt has been moved from 1973 to `74 in the budget (starting 2014). Hopefully, as that is a 40 year point, please God this will be the start of a return to the rolling exemption.... Fingers crossed.

tbh, sounds to me like something dragging on a pulley/flywheel??

Maybe the belt is slipping very slightly. When you start in the cold it takes more out of the battery, thus the alternator will be working harder to put the energy back. As the alternator`s working harder, it takes more to turn it, so the belt may slip ever so slightly; as battery charges , load eas...

I had a belt from halfords, it was shite, exactly same problem. If you know the alternator`s bolts are tight, I`d just look at getting another belt, bosch, ferodo etc etc

At the bottom of the 2nd pic, looks like a pair of hefty TO3 cased power transistors mounted outside box with plastic covers? Could have been some kind of PA system, alarm, or even (as the 2 big electrolytics are rated @ 1000v) maybe even some form of home made electronic ignition? As beakster says ...

Sorry I was being ironic, as in "apart from the pipe having to go under the axle and the exit come through the back panel - are you sure it`s the right way up??"

the bend in the pipe behind the backbox would have to go under the axle and the tail pipe would come through the back panel

But apart from that..........

I`m fairly certain it would be possible to prise out the old seal and drive a new one in in-situ, just being very careful not to damage the area where the seal bears. Somebody will have done this (or not??) Seals are available, crank front, aux shaft & cam are identical: http://www.ebay.co.uk/it...

Your right, that`s right, that`s exactly my point - the blue antifreeze IS the correct type: the RED O.A.T. 5 year stuff (which the first poster has used) is intended for new(ish) cars and is not recommended for older vehicles. Whether to flush it out now or wait & see - up to him. But it defini...

The blue or the red? (from CarPlan`s website) CarPlan Red Advance Antifreeze CarPlan Red Advance is the latest in ethylene glycol based antifreeze/coolant, incorporating advanced silicated Organic Acid Technonlogy (OAT). It is recommended for Volkswagen Group vehicles 2005 onwards, amongst other, an...

I use that in both capri's with a 50/50 mix and never had any problems. http://www.commaoil.com/productsguide/view/6/353 That link goes to a conventional ethylene glycol based antifreeze. If I`m not mistaken, the red 5year antifreeze is the new Organic Acid Technology stuff which I`m sure is not re...

I think he means more that the rev counter is jumping rather than the engine speed actually changing?? If so, yes it is probably the LT connection to coil - although mine starts to flicker a bit at tickover when the points need a bit of a wipe. Just try generally cleaning up the connections to the c...

Thanks!!!

It does sound worryingly like head gasket trouble; as above, do a compression test first of all obviously checking plugs for clues. Good luck!
(Go on, remind me, FUBAR???? [can guess 1st 2....])

Advice for the day put something behind your clocks to ensure they do not short out leave them unfixed and go for a drive. At least then you know what the issues are and will save time removing and refitting them until you have sorted out all the issues! No, no, no: That won`t work - it will always...