The Ford Capri Laser Page

Doesn't the horn have a permanent live feed and is operated by being earthed? Or was that just really old cars?

Yep that'll be safe. Fuse blows before wire goes.

Remember the fuse rating is dependant on the rating of the wire you are using. 15amp fuse in 20amp wire...nice and safe. 20amp fuse in 15amp wire and if something goes wrong, I can smell smoke and your FIRE and theft policy is gonna be needed.

Ok a bit of miss communication, I thought it was the laser interior cloth not the late S type called laser. I can get the plane cloth but the stripe has since run out. Mike Hi Mike. No miss communication mate. I just hijacked this thread to ask you about the availabilty of the strobe material. Sorr...

Skipped loads myself and seen others chucking away laser seats and door cards back in the day. No-one wanted them. Nowadays gen u win laser interior probably need a mortgage to buy.

Sometimes glad I don't play the capri game anymore

The post was edited to remove that part AFTER I posted my reply.

I stand by exactly what I posted.

If the day ever comes when knowledgeable members of this forum cannot point out dangerous stupidity then we will be failing every human being on this earth who ever goes near a road.

The emissions thing is easy...follow the instructions (I've put on here before) for setting the idle mixture, it will then pass. The brakes issue is different. Think for a moment what you are saying. Your car has failed the MOT test for it's braking ability. That means it is unsafe to be on the road...

I ran the Rat on efi....you do need either the 2.8 tank and pump or a swirl pot. Otherwise when you go round a corner the engine will cut out.

Think it's an age thing....older pinto's didn't have a viscous fan. If overheating or overcooling has not been a problem then stick to "if it ain't broke don't fix it" unless you are desperate for the 1or 2 extra horses (or probably nearer 1/2 a horse if any at all) the viscous will release.

Don't know what sort of mechanic you asked....but the carb is the last thing I would suspect. Ignition system in tip top condition is a must before you mess with the carb. That means plugs, points, leads, and coil must be beyond reproach. Ensure the valve clearances are correct as well. If you have ...

Pinto's generally don't need choke. Provided the engine is well tuned you can remove the assembly and even the flaps. Press the accelerator fully down quick to operate the pump jet before starting and it'll fire up easy, no choke at all. Glyn used to say removing the flaps from a 32/36 or 38 weber g...

The limiter is there for a reason........

:agree: Before you start messing around with carb settings make sure everything else is in tip top condition. Valve clearances, plugs, points, leads, ignition timing must all be spot on before you adjust idle mixture or choke settings. Screwing the mixture screw in and out in isolation to compensate...

At £90 for a standard system I'd buy 2 (In fact I might and put them in the lockup). Should last you 10 years plus and it is as close to original as you're gonna get.

ABS? ESP? Hours and hours of hassle even if it could be done .
Power Steering? Possible with some effort but all three are a complete waste of time.

Suspect this is a wind up but if not let's welcome another muppet to the Laser Page.

That radio definitely does not accept the fm signal.

Not_Anumber wrote:It would be interesting to know what difference to performance and economy the absence of back pressure would make.

Absolutely fuck all difference to anything. This has been discussed at length previously, on a four stroke commercial engine back pressure simply does not exist. End of story.

It is now official...the term "common sense" is not allowed to be used anymore. Be aware...this is not a joke. The above was formally communicated to me on a course at work recently which involved (of course) some health and safety aspects. I do understand where they are coming from as it ...

2ltr cam, 32/36 dgav Weber, decent exhaust and manifold......and your 1.6 will out perform a std 2 litre. Beyond that, you need to start with your 205 block 2 litre and go from there

Bottomless pockets and money to burn makes no difference......what does is the following points: 1) Buying a 2.8i and trying to make it go fast is a waste of time. Read the Burton Power notes on tuning the 2.8, they know their stuff. 2) 17 years old and you've done some restoration work on an Alvis....