The Ford Capri Laser Page

Would tend to agree - probably an aftermarket standard spec one made by ultra parts (fitted a few of these in the past without issue) or a similar company.

Has anyone had experience with the CCI steering coupling?

Yes, fitted one - no complaints.

Also had similar issues removing a rack - turned out someone at some point in the past had at forced the whole thing back together a spline out!

I can confirm that the ford single choke does use a different manifold to the VV (hence the adaptor plates when fitting the very similar Weber ICH to a VV manifold).

As stated - rolling road.

Is it just a transit block or the whole unit - If so it will also have the transit cam - not really a great starting point for any sort of performance motor.

Are you running with trumpets? You need to be. Dizzy vac take off just from one cylinder is no good - better to run with no dizzy vac (as already stated this isn't ideal for smoothness). Make sure the take off on the manifold is well blanked and not drawing air. Unsure but don't think short 20mm man...

Firstly, from the pic - that car would appear to be fitted with an X-Pack body kit - giving it wider arches etc V6 models are going to be more expensive and harder to source - in fact no Capri is going to be cheap anymore - go for a 1.6 or 2litre and just remove some silencing from the exhaust with ...

Was going to suggest master cylinder but re-read and noticed you'd replaced it.

Wondering - are the rear shoes adjusted up correctly? This could cause long pedal travel.

paving slabs in the boot to get traction

Only worth the big £££ if genuine with Ford imprinted in them.

Chemical metal, JB weld and the like will sort it if the rest of the cover's not in bad shape.

Seconded.

But if you have the type where you can replace the cover - do so - it's money well spent.

UPDATE - Before I started the car: Took the top off the carb - doubled checked float etc - all OK. A quick inspection of the power valve - knackered - swapped for an 'OK' one from an old carb from my spares pile. Started car again - fuel cap left on - ran a good 25 mins - level in the fuel filter st...

Thanks for replies - a fresh pump is on its way - just to eliminate that if nothing else. 15-20 mins seems a long time to run if the pump isn't delivering Bug, yes, that what's bothers me but taking the cap off didn't make any difference the last time I tried it. Regardless, will give it a go again ...

Odd issue I thought I'd cured... 1.6 pinto with DGAV has been slowly put back together after a number of years - just had it running in the garage... Starts fine, warms up - runs fine until after about 15-20mins it begins to run rough and eventually cuts out (adding revs makes no difference in fact ...

Bit of a wild card suggestion - especially as I know most things on the car have been changed and this issue has been going on a long time - but... Have you checked the handbrake adjusters in the rear drums? If they are adjusting or have been adjusted up a little too far all might seem OK when you j...

Could be a case of whatever was fitted - had some old filter housings in my shed which were both and they were all from pre-laser 1600 models. The round ones could have originally been a Sierra thing as these had a length of piping running from the housing to the inner wing near the headlamp IIRC - ...

Gutted to see/read about this. Still, as stated, it looks bad but is definitely repairable. Keep your spirits up - it will get sorted. (My black car must've looked very similar at one point in its life - and that was when Capris were generally cheap and disregarded - but a bonnet and a wing - and a ...

1.5% is what it is meant to be at based on specs by Haynes and Weber, so I'm trying to aim for that, I'm hoping my fuel consumption will improve if I get that and won't get this sort of galloping if I suddenly put my foot down at low revs when in 2nd after I've already been driving in that gear. I ...

Check the ignition timing to be sure, also check carb float height. Also look for any possible places where air could be getting drawn in (necessitating the need have the engine 'running rich') around the carb and/or inlet manifold (make sure the vac pipe from carb to distributor is connected). Mayb...

All down to offset but 8x13 gets tight/needs some arch rolling so 9 is looking doubtful - rear N/S also has the issue of running close to the exhaust.

That should do it - old screen wash seems to form into a sort of glue after a while.

Yes - that's it- the impeller should move freely as well (if it doesn't that's most likely the problem) - just try turning it with your fingers.

Might feel tight but it should give with a little light finger pressure...